Which HDD recommendations for V2

[johnmw1]

Hi,

Currently still running my DP-S1 but have been contemplating a new V2 just it will be on a budget, unfortunately.

What 2 TB HDD would people recommend purchasing separately?

Also with the old S1, I sometimes have timer clashes trying to record 3 programs at once. If it's an ABC or SBS show I can record it on Fox, but on the very rare occasion, this is not possible. Would I need just an extra single USB tuner to sort this issue, and are there any other brands of USB tuners suitable for the V2 or are we locked into using the Beyonwiz tuners only?

I could probably ask the same question about the wifi dongle, or again are we locked into the Beyonwiz version? Currently, the S1 is wired via the ethernet as a wifi connection with it was near impossible to achieve, but it's messy as I have my ethernet cable running across floors and around corners to connect to the S1.

Finally, did I read correctly that there is no HDMI connection with the V2

Cheers,
John

[MrQuade]

Also with the old S1, I sometimes have timer clashes trying to record 3 programs at once. If it's an ABC or SBS show I can record it on Fox, but on the very rare occasion, this is not possible. Would I need just an extra single USB tuner to sort this issue, and are there any other brands of USB tuners suitable for the V2 or are we locked into using the Beyonwiz tuners only?

There is only one type of Dual Tuner that can be readily purchased for the V2, simply because there aren't many Dual USB DVB-T tuners made any more. The Hauppage Dual tuner is the one that Beyonwiz sells, and I have also used the PlayStation 3's Play TV dual tuner with the V2 as well.
There are a few other types of single tuner USB dongles that will work, but you are best sticking with the one we call "Bluey". There are a few posts linking to EBay listings for compatible units.

I could probably ask the same question about the wifi dongle, or again are we locked into the Beyonwiz version? Currently, the S1 is wired via the ethernet as a wifi connection with it was near impossible to achieve, but it's messy as I have my ethernet cable running across floors and around corners to connect to the S1.

Any WiFi dongle that has a compatible chipset and driver available should work. The process can be a little hit and miss, as there are other variables at play too. I use my V2 with a cheap low-profile WiFi dongle which was not Beyonwiz supplied.

So, not essential, but some research is required.

Finally, did I read correctly that there is no HDMI connection with the V2

It has a HDMI output, but it does not have an HDMI input. Only the Beyonwiz T4 and U4 had HDMI inputs for recording from external HDMI sources.

The only expected feature you would consider "missing" from the V2 is an internal harddisk.

[prl]

The only expected feature you would consider "missing" from the V2 is an internal harddisk.

That and the limited number of USB slots combined with the lack of the internal HDD. Unless you also add a USB hub, pick any two: HDD, USB Tuner, USB WiFi dongle, for example.

John, have you looked at the Unofficial Beyonwiz comparison guide? It doesn't include any of the DP series, only the newer models, but it will give you a quick rundown of the V2 capabilities.

[johnmw1]

There are a few other types of single tuner USB dongles that will work, but you are best sticking with the one we call "Bluey". There are a few posts linking to EBay listings for compatible units.

Thanks, MrQuade for your answers, I can see I will have to use the search function a bit more to find "Bluey"

Any WiFi dongle that has a compatible chipset and driver available should work. The process can be a little hit and miss, as there are other variables at play too. I use my V2 with a cheap low-profile WiFi dongle which was not Beyonwiz supplied.

So, not essential, but some research is required.

Again more searching...............

It has an HDMI output, but it does not have an HDMI input. Only the Beyonwiz T4 and U4 had HDMI inputs for recording from external HDMI sources.

Input/output I get them confused haha

Cheers,
John

[johnmw1]

That and the limited number of USB slots combined with the lack of the internal HDD. Unless you also add a USB hub, pick any two: HDD, USB Tuner, USB WiFi dongle, for example.

Hi Peter,
Yes, you raise another couple of points that the V2 is lacking but compared to what I'm currently using I think I can cope.

John, have you looked at the Unofficial Beyonwiz comparison guide? It doesn't include any of the DP series, only the newer models, but it will give you a quick rundown of the V2 capabilities.

Yes Peter I was looking at the comparison list earlier today. Interesting to see how the different models have evolved or devolved if that's even a word.

So which HDD is being recommended?

Cheers,
John

PS, I have an IceTV sub which I have had since its introduction all those years back.

[prl]

When I bought a HDD for my test V2, I bought the cheapest one I could get most conveniently. I ended up with a 1TB Toshiba Canvio Basics.

You don't really need a very high performance device. All the channels from a single broadcaster add up to no more than 24-25 Mb/s, or about 4 MB/s. If you recorded all channels from every broadcaster (you'd need 5 tuners to do that), it's still only about 20MB/s.

Just choose on some criterion that makes sense to you: past experience with brands, price, convenience to buy, whatever...

The partitioning and the filesystem preferred by the V2 (Linux ext4) will handle devices far larger than any single HDD you can buy.

[prl]

Since your IceTV is still current, you can just add the V2 as another recording device (you can have up to 5 on an subscription). Then you can copy all your IceTV recording setup from the DP-S1 to the V2 (and once it's working delete all the S1 recording setup).

[Grumpy_Geoff]

There are a few other types of single tuner USB dongles that will work, but you are best sticking with the one we call "Bluey". There are a few posts linking to EBay listings for compatible units.

Thanks, MrQuade for your answers, I can see I will have to use the search function a bit more to find "Bluey"

The single-tuner USB dongles you need are the ones that have the Rafael Micro [R]820T2 or [R]820T tuner chips and the Realtek RTL2832U demodulator chip -
A "bluey" looks like this - https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB15IWYLVXX ... R820T2.jpg
The "blackie" is the same case but black in colour ( ) and has the earlier R820T tuner (no discernible difference).

It must have the Rafael Micro R820T or R820T2 tuner chip (not a Fitipower FC0012 or Elonics E4000 tuner chip).
There are other units on eBay with the Rafael Micro R828D/D2 chips - I believe they are backward compatible, but I don't know of anybody using one with a Wiz.

Here's an example of an R820T2 "bluey" from eBay (no idea on the seller though) - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313306789172

You'll also need to buy a IEC/PAL/Belling-Lee female->small MCX male pigtail cable (like this https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/1WcAAOSw ... -l1600.jpg).
Possibly a USB extension cable too - a V2 user will need to chime in on the USB port spacing.

[MrQuade]

Possibly a USB extension cable too - a V2 user will need to chime in on the USB port spacing.

One thing I did notice on the weekend when I was playing with the V2's USB tuner arrangement, was that the Bluey will only plug neatly into the USB2 port. The USB2 and USB3 ports have opposite orientations to eachother, and since the Bluey's antenna lead connects to the side of the tuner, when plugged into the USB3 port, the Bluey's Antenna points down and clashes with the surface the V2 is sitting on.

[prl]

Possibly a USB extension cable too - a V2 user will need to chime in on the USB port spacing.

One thing I did notice on the weekend when I was playing with the V2's USB tuner arrangement, was that the Bluey will only plug neatly into the USB2 port. The USB2 and USB3 ports have opposite orientations to eachother, and since the Bluey's antenna lead connects to the side of the tuner, when plugged into the USB3 port, the Bluey's Antenna points down and clashes with the surface the V2 is sitting on.

Yes, that's correct. The bluey's antenna plug is along the edge of the dongle, and can only plug in directly to the V2 USB2 port. However, the Hauppauge dual tuner and the old Beyonwiz-supplied "little black square" dongle have the antenna entering at the end of the dongle and can be used in either V2 USB slot.

There's plenty of room around the two V2 USB ports to allow the Beyonwiz "square black", the "bluey" and the Hauppauge dual tuners to all plug in without interfering with any other plugs, but the "bluey" only really works without a USB extension in the V2 USB2 socket.

The output bitrate of the tuner shouldn't be much more than about 25Mb/s, so USB 2 can handle that easily.

[MrQuade]

However, the Hauppauge dual tuner and the old Beyonwiz-supplied "little black square" dongle have the antenna entering at the end of the dongle and can be used in either V2 USB slot.

I am currently a little bit different with my Hauppage tuner. I plug the built-in antenna connector straight onto the antenna-out on the V2, then plug the little USB extension cable into the USB2 port on the V2.

I need to re-arrange things to allow for both tuners at once now that I know I can set up the V2 to receive all 5 broadcasters in my area .

[prl]

However, the Hauppauge dual tuner and the old Beyonwiz-supplied "little black square" dongle have the antenna entering at the end of the dongle and can be used in either V2 USB slot.

I am currently a little bit different with my Hauppage tuner. I plug the built-in antenna connector straight onto the antenna-out on the V2, then plug the little USB extension cable into the USB2 port on the V2.

De gustibus non est disputandum

[johnmw1]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for your replies, and apologies for my absence as I started night shift yesterday and sort of lost a day.

If there is a single tuner available (Bluey) is there also a dual tuner that is compatible with the V2?

Cheers,
John

[MrQuade]

If there is a single tuner available (Bluey) is there also a dual tuner that is compatible with the V2?

The only one that you can buy new is the same model that is in the Beyonwiz store. The Hauppage USB dual dvb-t tuner. You can find this for sale elsewhere, but the price is usually about the same in my experience.

The V2 can also use the Sony Playstation 3 PlayTV tuner if you happen to have one of those kicking around. You may be able to find one of those very cheaply if you are lucky.

[Sandy B]

Due to my ongoing and unresolved problems with my tuner C, I am considering buying another "bluey" but not from Beyonwiz.

You'll also need to buy a IEC/PAL/Belling-Lee female->small MCX male pigtail cable (like this https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/1WcAAOSw ... -l1600.jpg).

Your link to the cable only provides a photo, and not the actual site, can you provide that link or is this a suitable cable <https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/cable-IEC-D ... SwKJRZhB4B>

Many thanks

[Paul_oz53]

Due to my ongoing and unresolved problems with my tuner C, I am considering buying another "bluey" but not from Beyonwiz.

You'll also need to buy a IEC/PAL/Belling-Lee female->small MCX male pigtail cable (like this https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/1WcAAOSw ... -l1600.jpg).

Your link to the cable only provides a photo, and not the actual site, can you provide that link or is this a suitable cable <https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/cable-IEC-D ... SwKJRZhB4B>

Many thanks

Looks ok. Just check whether you want a female connection at the PAL end or male.

[Grumpy_Geoff]

Your link to the cable only provides a photo, and not the actual site, can you provide that link or is this a suitable cable <https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/cable-IEC-D ... SwKJRZhB4B>

Yes, I know, that was my intention, as I was pointing out to johnmw1 that when using a USB single-tuner dongle, either a "MINI DVB®T terrestrial" dongle (original Beyonwiz-supplied, "square-black", ITE 9135 chipset, which identifies as "DVB-T TV Stick"), or the R820T/T2 blueys/blackies, that he'll need a PAL to micro MCX antenna cable for the tuner's antenna input.

You already have such a cable, it came with the tuner you got from Beyonwiz.
A bit cheaper than what you showed - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133439165299
Even adapters like these would probably work - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192365919094

[Sandy B]

You already have such a cable, it came with the tuner you got from Beyonwiz

You are correct I do have a cable, however there is a thought/possibility that it is the cable causing the problem and I have no way of testing the cable.

[Grumpy_Geoff]

You already have such a cable, it came with the tuner you got from Beyonwiz

You are correct I do have a cable, however there is a thought/possibility that it is the cable causing the problem and I have no way of testing the cable.

Unless you can source/borrow one locally, that'll take weeks to find out.
I've not heard of the micro MCX pig tails going bad - though 1st time for everything, right

[peteru]

I've not heard of the micro MCX pig tails going bad - though 1st time for everything, right

Depending on how clumsy and heavy handed the user is, they can go bad "all the time, just by itself, I swear."

It's usually the connector being mangled and unfortunately about half the time it's the device end, which makes it pretty much unfixable in an economical manner.

[johnmw1]

If there is a single tuner available (Bluey) is there also a dual tuner that is compatible with the V2?

The only one that you can buy new is the same model that is in the Beyonwiz store. The Hauppage USB dual dvb-t tuner. You can find this for sale elsewhere, but the price is usually about the same in my experience.

The V2 can also use the Sony Playstation 3 PlayTV tuner if you happen to have one of those kicking around. You may be able to find one of those very cheaply if you are lucky.

Thanks for that, I have managed to find a couple of PS3 tuners online, how used they are is another question?

Cheers,
John

[Grumpy_Geoff]

I've not heard of the micro MCX pig tails going bad - though 1st time for everything, right

Depending on how clumsy and heavy handed the user is, they can go bad "all the time, just by itself, I swear."

It's usually the connector being mangled and unfortunately about half the time it's the device end, which makes it pretty much unfixable in an economical manner.

I came across one today

[johnmw1]

Okay,

So if I have my dual tuner sorted, my next question is the wifi dongle? Again are there other choices available to use, or is their dongle matched to the V2?

While I'm on a roll, alternatives to the USB hub on offer?

And finally back to the HDD question (I'm confused). In another thread, I was reading about what other users were using for the HDD and it was mentioned about the differences between 2.5 and 3.5-inch drives and what power they needed to be able to operate correctly. My understanding (zero) was the consensus that 2.5-inch drives were the way to go? Have I understood correctly or am I way off the mark?

Cheers,
John

[MrQuade]

So if I have my dual tuner sorted, my next question is the wifi dongle? Again are there other choices available to use, or is their dongle matched to the V2?

The choice of WiFi dongles is a little wider in terms of basic "it works" functionality. Some prove to be more reliable than others in long term operation. But similar to the tuners, as long as the chipset is supported by a driver, then there is a good chance it will work.

While I'm on a roll, alternatives to the USB hub on offer?

Just about anything will work here.
Best to buy one with its own power source though. (So as not to load down the V2's power supply to power all your peripherals).

And finally back to the HDD question (I'm confused). In another thread, I was reading about what other users were using for the HDD and it was mentioned about the differences between 2.5 and 3.5-inch drives and what power they needed to be able to operate correctly. My understanding (zero) was the consensus that 2.5-inch drives were the way to go? Have I understood correctly or am I way off the mark?

Either will work.
A 3.5" drive will need its own power supply, whereas a 2.5" drive can be coaxed to work off USB power alone.
The USB3 port should be used for this as it can supply more power, though it is still recommended that you power the 2.5" drive using its own power supply (or from a separately powered hub as-per the previous point).

[Henk]

Even adapters like these would probably work - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192365919094

An RG-6 coaxial cable has a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohms.
Is the 50 Ohm impedance an issue with this adaptor?

[Grumpy_Geoff]

An RG-6 coaxial cable has a characteristic impedance of 75 Ohms.
Is the 50 Ohm impedance an issue with this adaptor?

Sorry, I wouldn't know - you've asked the wrong bloke as I know nowt.
Others will know though.

Sandy B has already ordered two replacement PAL/MCX pig tail cables.

[prl]

Impedance mismatches will cause signsl loss. Once upon a time I probably could have said how much.

[peteru]

When in doubt, start estimating at -3dB and tweak from there.

[prl]

When in doubt, start estimating at -3dB and tweak from there.

The loss depends on the impedance differences and the length of the cable in wavelengths. That's why they invented the Smith chart

[Paul_oz53]

Impedance mismatches will cause signsl loss. Once upon a time I probably could have said how much.

Been a long time since I did smith chart calculations. A 50 to 75 ohm mismatch corresponds to a VSWR of 1.5 which radio amateurs would regard as acceptable.

A rough rule of thumb is around 5 to 20% - or 0.5 to 2 dB loss. Allowing -3dB is probably conservative on that basis. However, in truth the nominal 75 ohm input Impedance of the tuner is rarely that except in a narrow frequency range. It is quite likely the receiver is a significant mismatch such that -3dB is a reasonable approximation overall.

Many radio amateurs use 75 ohm cable because it's cheap and easy when 50 ohm should be preferred but they find the extra loss has little practical effect.

Bottom line is that it's unlikely to be of any consequence in good signal areas. For the USB tuner the effect is unlikely to be a problem. If it is, it will most likely show as poor reception on particular channels.

[prl]

Impedance mismatches will cause signsl loss. Once upon a time I probably could have said how much.

Been a long time since I did smith chart calculations.

Me too. Probably 1977 for me.

A 50 to 75 ohm mismatch corresponds to a VSWR of 1.5 which radio amateurs would regard as acceptable.

I had a section of 75Ω in an otherwise 50Ω run stop thin Ethernet (10BASE2) from working, though that's a rather different signal environment. It took a while to find, too, because apart from the fine white printing on the cables, there was nothing to differentiate them.

[Paul_oz53]

Been a long time since I did smith chart calculations.

Me too. Probably 1977 for me.

Around 1974 here.

I had a section of 75Ω in an otherwise 50Ω run stop thin Ethernet (10BASE2) from working, though that's a rather different signal environment. It took a while to find, too, because apart from the fine white printing on the cables, there was nothing to differentiate them.

Mismatch effects are worse at lower frequencies and will distort pulse waveforms quite badly. Glad you solved the problem!

[johnmw1]

The choice of WiFi dongles is a little wider in terms of basic "it works" functionality. Some prove to be more reliable than others in long term operation. But similar to the tuners, as long as the chipset is supported by a driver, then there is a good chance it will work.

Being a PIA, but could you show me a couple of examples of what I'm looking for, please. I had a search on eBay but I know nothing of what I'm looking at in terms of specs etc.

Just about anything will work here.
Best to buy one with its own power source though. (So as not to load down the V2's power supply to power all your peripherals).

Either will work.
A 3.5" drive will need its own power supply, whereas a 2.5" drive can be coaxed to work off USB power alone.
The USB3 port should be used for this as it can supply more power, though it is still recommended that you power the 2.5" drive using its own power supply (or from a separately powered hub as-per the previous point).

Yes, good point if I'm going to run it from the hub. Are you saying if I get a 3.5-inch drive it will still need its own power supply or it can be run from the powered hub instead?

Sorry, too many questions I know.

Cheers,
John

[Paul_oz53]

The EDUP EP-AC1619 works for me on 5GHz on U4, T4, T3. I'd expect it to work on a V2 as well.

And a 3.5 inch external HDD requires its own power supply. Many 2.5 inch HDDs can be run off USB 3 ports.

[MrQuade]

Being a PIA, but could you show me a couple of examples of what I'm looking for, please. I had a search on eBay but I know nothing of what I'm looking at in terms of specs etc.

That's ok, it is a bit of a rabbit warren, and if I am honest I was avoiding a comprehensive search of my own .

Grumpy Geoff has a made a good post here.

Take note of his advice there too about using a separate access point. You will be almost guaranteed of a more reliable result by using a separate router, as it will simply present the V2 with an Ethernet connection. No need to worry about USB drivers and hotplug events and going to standby etc..... And if you have a router with multiple ports on it, you can connect more than one device through it.

Most of my own network is hard-wired, but I have an outdoor TV that makes use of a WiFi access point (in a mesh configuration) to connect two Beyonwiz STBs to my network. It was cleaner and easier than fitting both of them with USB adaptors.

[Grumpy_Geoff]

The choice of WiFi dongles is a little wider in terms of basic "it works" functionality. Some prove to be more reliable than others in long term operation. But similar to the tuners, as long as the chipset is supported by a driver, then there is a good chance it will work.

Being a PIA, but could you show me a couple of examples of what I'm looking for, please. I had a search on eBay but I know nothing of what I'm looking at in terms of specs etc.

Can I ask what you mainly want the network connection for? Low bandwidth usage stuff - for IceTV, a bit of streaming, OpenWebif - that sort of thing? Or mainly for heavy-duty copying of recordings from the V2 and transferring video files to it?

Wireless on the Wiz is a bit "hit-and-miss", to be quite frank about it.
The wireless dongle will need to identify itself as having a USB Device ID that the T/U/V-series already has in its device database so it can select the correct wireless driver to use.
We've seen dongles fail that use the same chipset as one that succeeds. That's even in the same brand/model.
I think that's the luck of the draw bit.

My recomendation is to not use a dongle, use a wireless-to-ethernet bridge instead (various extenders, access points, or routers can operate in that mode).
Examples -
For wireless-N only capability, grab a TL-WA801N ($35 MSY) or TL-WA901N ($45).
For wireless-AC, grab a TL-WA1201 if you can get one ($72.98 mwave, Skycomp $76, others $79).
Set it up in "client" mode, connecting it to your wireless network and connect your Wiz via ethernet cable to the wireless-to-ethernet bridge.

[johnmw1]

That's ok, it is a bit of a rabbit warren, and if I am honest I was avoiding a comprehensive search of my own .

Grumpy Geoff has made a good post here.

Take note of his advice there too about using a separate access point. You will be almost guaranteed of a more reliable result by using a separate router, as it will simply present the V2 with an Ethernet connection. No need to worry about USB drivers and hotplug events and going to standby etc..... And if you have a router with multiple ports on it, you can connect more than one device through it.

Thanks again MrQuade, I'm just trying to get my head around all this stuff.

Cheers,
John