BEYONWIZ V2 SETUP

[mchung]

I am setting up a new V2 with additional USB tuner and are unable to see the Quad tuner. THe unit is securely plugged in and the antenna loop is correctly attached.

With the scanning of the two tuners I can currently only find the ABC and Nine networks.

Any assistace would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,
Michael

[Paul_oz53]

The V2 must be rebooted to find the USB tuner. It is not hot swappable. An easy trap for new users!

Not sure what your seeing with the stations. When you scanned the Terrestrial bouquet should be full with all the stations.

Channel up and down should select them.

Do you mean you get no signal on other networks or are they missing altogether?

[IanL-S]

Finally took the plung and added a V2 to my collection. A few false starts here and there during the setup but it now doing just fine.

One oddity, it would not recognise the 4TB Seagate Expansion drive when attached to the USB 3 port via a USB 3 hub. It would however, recognise it when using a USB 2 Hub connecting to the USB 3 port. Now have it connected directly, and have a 5 USB 2 hub to which I have attached 2 Sony Play TV dual USB turners, plus a fan and (for the moment) USB dongle for my Logitech Keybaord/Trackpad.

Update A 7 port USB 3 hub just arrived and it works with the USB HDD. Must be something to do with the hub chipset.

Ian

[Grumpy_Geoff]

..., and have a 5 USB 2 hub to which I have attached 2 Sony Play TV dual USB turners, ...

So you're the one drying up the PlayTV tuner supply

Update A 7 port USB 3 hub just arrived and it works with the USB HDD. Must be something to do with the hub chipset.

For reference, what make/model is that working hub?

[IanL-S]

It is unbranded. I got it on eBay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224453399272. There is an almost identical model which has a power supply with two USB ports. There is also a 5 port version. Not particularly sturdy.

The "unusual" feature is that the cable connecting the hub to the PC/PVR, it is connected to the Hub using the type of connector used on mobile HDD - cannot remember what it is called. That cable is flat, rather than round.

They are available from multiple suppliers, but make sure you select an Australian one or could end up with incorrect plug on the power supply.

The USB 3 Hub that was a problem with the V2, but not the T2, was a 4 port hub I got from Kogan, Astrotek 5 Port USB3.0 HUB With 5V 2.5A Power Adaptor (actually on 4 ports, as one is connected to the PC/PVR. Much sturdier, but port arrangement is not ideal. It not as flimsey as the othe one.

Ian

And yes, I have been raiding the Sony dual USB tuners - one on the U4 and 2 on the V2.

[Grumpy_Geoff]

It is unbranded. I got it on eBay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224453399272. There is an almost identical model which has a power supply with two USB ports. There is also a 5 port version. Not particularly sturdy.

Ah yes, I've seen that model before.
What's the output from the AC power adapter, as that's normally the weak point of the cheapies?

[Grumpy_Geoff]

The "unusual" feature is that the cable connecting the hub to the PC/PVR, it is connected to the Hub using the type of connector used on mobile HDD - cannot remember what it is called.

USB3.0 Micro-B
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_3.0#/ ... 033_wp.jpg

[IanL-S]

Ah, Micro B, which looks nothing like a B just to confuse us - I suspect it is indicatibe of the use it is put to than what it looks like.

It is claimed that the output is 2.5A, no way of knowing how accurate it is. It is identified as a Technics-gp, and is said to be for "FUGIFILM". There is a model number, TEA-001M, but not clear if that is for the Austrealian Plug (which clips in) or the adapter. On the "body" there is "1534R", which could be the model number. Could not find anything on the internet.

Update: Just had a closer look at the back of the power supply, and there it appers that the output is 5V - 1.0A, although it is very hard to read. There does not seem to be any information on polarity.

On a slightly different matter, I noticed that the display was showing it was recording just after breakfast this morning, an thought that odd as nothing was scheduled. It turned out that I had not turned on the power to the transofrmer, and there was I assume insufficient power making its way back from the V2 to cope with two simultaneous recordings, and the unit disconnected. Just speculation. But there was no blue light on the drive which is present when it thinks it is getting power. Will stress test it today to make sure that it really works.

Ian

[MrQuade]

Update: Just had a closer look at the back of the power supply, and there it appers that the output is 5V - 1.0A, although it is very hard to read. There does not seem to be any information on polarity.

A 5 outlet USB hub with a 5V 1A power supply!!! To quote Mr Savage "Well there's your problem!"
It'd likely perform better with a 3A supply sourced from somewhere else.

[Grumpy_Geoff]

Update: Just had a closer look at the back of the power supply, and there it appers that the output is 5V - 1.0A, although it is very hard to read. There does not seem to be any information on polarity.

Ooh! peteru describes the need for "5V@1A per USB3 port" here.
If it really is 5V/1A then I wouldn't trust that one with more than one USB3 drive.

[IanL-S]

Ooh! peteru describes the need for "5V@1A per USB3 port" here.
If it really is 5V/1A then I wouldn't trust that one with more than one USB3 drive.

I only intend having 1 USB 3 HDD attached.

I worked out why the traditional polarity information is absent; there is diagram giving USB port pin layout (very difficult to read), +ve on pin 1 and -ve on pin 4, which is not the usual arrangment (as I understand it) they should be pins 3 and 2 respectivley. So a standard USB charger would not be pinned correctly.

I have a few 3/12VDC Switchable Power supply that I picked up at the Dick Smith going out of business sale for, I think under $5. I took a punt on the polarity being +ve - the power supply on my USB 2 7 port (looks identical to the USB 3 one except for power supply). Checked the polarity on my other power supplies for USB hubs, all +ve. I connected an old USB 2 IDE drive to an identical USB 3 hub, nothing untoward happened , then another USB 2 SATA drive, still no probems . Will leave it overnight to confirm all is well.

[IanL-S]

Went back and checked out post by peteru which I reproduce in full.

As a rule of thumb, you should budget 5V@1A per USB3 port. So, for a four port USB3 hub, you should have a 5V/4A power supply. For USB2, it's only 5V@0.5A per port, so a four port USB2 hub would only need 5V/2A supply.

USB3 tends to be a bit more complicated in terms of power delivery, so you may actually end up with 12V power supplies for USB3 hubs, in which case 12V/2A is appropriate for a four port USB3 hub.

The second paragraph makes me wonder if I should adjust the Dick Smith from 5V/2.5A to one of the other settings:

• 6V2.5A

• 7.5V/2.5A

• 9V/2.5A

• 12V/5.2A edit should be 2.5A

Expert advice would be appeciated.

Ian

[Paul_oz53]

Went back and checked out post by peteru which I reproduce in full.

As a rule of thumb, you should budget 5V@1A per USB3 port. So, for a four port USB3 hub, you should have a 5V/4A power supply. For USB2, it's only 5V@0.5A per port, so a four port USB2 hub would only need 5V/2A supply.

USB3 tends to be a bit more complicated in terms of power delivery, so you may actually end up with 12V power supplies for USB3 hubs, in which case 12V/2A is appropriate for a four port USB3 hub.

The second paragraph makes me wonder if I should adjust the Dick Smith from 5V/2.5A to one of the other settings:

• 6V2.5A

• 7.5V/2.5A

• 9V/2.5A

• 12V/5.2A

Expert advice would be appeciated.

Ian

In micro-print and almost invisible will be an input specification for your hub. Do not change the adjustable PSU if you can't find a precise value to apply. High risk of damage if the USB hub does not contain inbuilt voltage regulators.

[MrQuade]

The second paragraph makes me wonder if I should adjust the Dick Smith from 5V/2.5A to one of the other settings:

• 6V2.5A

• 7.5V/2.5A

• 9V/2.5A

• 12V/5.2A

Expert advice would be appeciated.

If the original power supply is 5V, then the Dick Smith one needs to be set to 5V too.
It should be sufficient for a single harddrive and a couple of low power devices.

btw, that last 12V value, I suspect should also be 2.5A, not 5.2A.

One thing to look out for, is something I noticed on some of Jaycar's adjustable supplies.
They are rated as 3V-19V, and may be rated at, for example, 45W.
Your natural assumption is that it can deliver 45W at any voltage, and its just that the power supply won't deliver as much current at the higher voltages, but if you look at the fine print, the power supply is actually on capable of delivering 2.5A at 5V (ie. 15W). It is only when you set the supply to 19V, that it can deliver that full 45W. So they do have a fundamental current limit.

I did find a fixed voltage 5V, 4A unit at Altronics that would be good if you wanted to power a few harddrives.

[IanL-S]

Paul, that makes sense. I doubt that it has an inbuild regulator give it sells for under $20.

Nothing on the hub itself about voltage; will assume that the safe max is the 5V/2.5A given on the power supply that came with it. That power supply does not look robust, so I may use one of the Dick Smith units, which relatively speaking is built like a tank.

MrQuade, yes it was a Typo. Like the Jaycar unit you refer to, the max output is given as 30W, and supports from 3V/2.5A to 12V/2.5A. Also have an old one I got from Jaycar around 2005 when the power supply of my IceTV IceBox 2 failed - looking on the back the max output is 12V/500mA. The odd thing is that it does not have a 5V ouput.

Ian

Postcript: Do not contemplate having more than 4TB drive plus two USB tuners, and possibly a fan, and sometimes a USB keybaord. So 5V/2.5A should be sufficient fro my needs.

[MrQuade]

I have recently fallen down the rabbithole of joining the Kickstarter for several USB-based charging devices, all based on the latest USB PD (Power Delivery) standards, and utilising Gallium Nitride semiconductors rather than traditional materials.

I have both a 65W, and a 100W USB power supply, that are actually smaller than the typical 15W wall-wart power supplies we are talking about in this thread. I can run my laptop quite comfortably off the 100W one!
(the latest power source I joined was actually a portable battery bank capable of dual simultaneous 100W outputs!)

It will be good when/if USB PD is adopted across the board for all the usual crap-gadgets, so we can do away with all these different connectors and manual voltage selection. Of course that does also involve additional complexity and price, which would make it unsuitable for truly-dumb devices.

[peteru]

(the latest power source I joined was actually a portable battery bank capable of dual simultaneous 100W outputs!)

It's very likely that you won't be able to bring that on a plane. Either as cabin luggage or as checked-in luggage.

[MrQuade]

It's very likely that you won't be able to bring that on a plane. Either as cabin luggage or as checked-in luggage.

It is 24,000mAH with a cell voltage of 3.5V, so it is well under the 100WH limit that all the domestic carriers allow without any special permissions. (As long as it is in your carried luggage)

I already carry a 28,000mAH battery with me on flights, though its single port delivery is limited to 80W, and 100W total using both its ports.

[IanL-S]

The V2 cashed in various way when recording if attached by USB hub. As I suspected the problem was not with either the powered USB 2 or powered USB 3 hub, but with the power board they were plugged into. Ancient inexpensive board. Attached to relative new name brand power board everything worked without problems - managed to do 9 simultaneous recordings across 4 networks.

Ian