T2 Major Fault/Crash

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 17:25

Hi to all members.
I have two T2 recorders, as well as a DP1 and Lite.
I have developed a major issue with one of my T2s.
Previously I have been unable to use HDMI, but have been able to use through component output.
Recently this T2 has lost network connection suddenly and had resisted all attempts to reconnect.
In fact, any attempt to reconnect results in a complete hang.
There is a failed software message before hang up.
The unit reboots ok from a hard shutdown, with no change to previous settings.
I tried restarting the network. No effect.
I tried resetting the unit. Hangs up on the attempt.
I tried updating to version 19 from 17 but the unit just reboots without an update.
I tried reinstalling version 17. Nil effect.
I tried 5 different USB sticks, using both the front, and rear USB port, with nil effect.
I have attached a screen shot of the error message prior to hang up.
All attempts to fix the network or update the software ends in the hang up.
I can still use the tuners, and previously recorded files are unaffected.
I apologise if this fault has been previously covered but I been unable to find this.
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
It may well be that I have an unrepairable unit.
Thanks, in advance.

MrQuade · Post by **MrQuade** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 18:36

This looks a lot like a hardware fault that started with the HDMI port and has since spread.
The error there makes mention of a "hotplug" event, which implies that a hardware device was either plugged in or unplugged.......which may be the result of a faulty device or connection in the T2.

A crash that results in one of those screens will produce a full crashdump file. These are saved in your T2's log directory, which should be located in /root/logs by default.

If you can copy the latest crassh dump file onto a USB stick using the "Sources / files" feature in the main menu, you can post it here so we can look at it.

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 24, 2021 17:25
I tried reinstalling version 17. Nil effect.

Does that mean that the version 17 firmware didn't install, or that it installed, but didn't fix the bug?

If you were able to install 17.5, then I can't think why the 19.3 firmware wouldn't install?

If you used the same USB stick and unzipped the files the same way you did for 17.5, then it should work. (remembering to delete the other version from the USB stick before copying on 19.3)

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 19:40

Thanks for the quick response MrQuade.
I thought I might be faced with a major breakdown.
I already had version 17.5 , build 20190207 installed, and this remains in place.
None of the cold boots has had any effect.
I am unsure how to find the fault log file but I will check further.
I was very careful downloading, and arranging the software updates, testing every combination I could think of.
I was careful to ensure only one, unzipped file was on the stick, each time.
I don’t recall making any changes when the fault occurred.
If I can find the log file I’ll post it.
Thanks again

Paul_oz53 · Post by **Paul_oz53** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 20:37

Is the USB stick formatted FAT32? That would stop it being recognised for the firmware updater.

You can access File Commander from Menu >> Sources Files and use it to copy the log file to a USB drive.

Go to Internal flash. Select HDD . Then LOGS.

To copy the log with File Commander, first select the file to copy.

With a USB stick inserted, press "channel up" to swap to the RHS screen. Select the USB stick. Select a folder or the root directory.

Press channel down to swap focus back to the LHS. Press Copy (the Yellow key). If you correctly selected the source file and the target folder it will ask you to confirm the copy operation.

Return to the main menu. Under Plugins select Simple Umount. Unmount the USB stick.

adoxa · Post by **adoxa** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 21:01

The crash report is a failure to write to flash, so maybe the flash is stuffed, which would explain why updates aren't working.

adoxa · Post by **adoxa** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 21:05

MrQuade wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 24, 2021 18:36
A crash that results in one of those screens will produce a full crashdump file. These are saved in your T2's log directory, which should be located in /root/logs by default.

That's /home/root/logs by default, but notice this log is written to /tmp/Enigma2_crash.log. I would suggest flash is full, but an update should have fixed that, unless restoring a backup immediately filled flash, again.

MrQuade · Post by **MrQuade** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 21:20

adoxa wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 24, 2021 21:05
That's /home/root/logs by default,

Oops, forgot one!

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 22:42

Wow, thanks for all the contributors so far.
I’ll f/u all this as soon as possible.
One thing I can confirm is that I was careful to format the sticks as Fat32.
One possibly stupid question is, can the flash memory be cleared, or files in there deleted, or new flash memory installed?
Cheers

MrQuade · Post by **MrQuade** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 22:47

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 24, 2021 22:42
One possibly stupid question is, can the flash memory be cleared, or files in there deleted, or new flash memory installed?
Cheers

A USB firmware install will format the flash memory and then load fresh software on the empty flash.

You can't install new or extra flash.

They most common reason I have seen for flash memory filling up is if your Wiz starts accidentally recording to flash instead of the hard-disk. That usually only happens as a result of a misconfiguration or hardware fault.

It is also possible that years of log files might fill it up...

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 22:51

By the way, I haven’t done any backups, or restorations.
I have, however, tried to reconnect the network several times, each time resulting in the crash/ hang up, and getting the software error message.

MrQuade · Post by **MrQuade** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 23:22

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 24, 2021 22:51
By the way, I haven’t done any backups, or restorations.
I have, however, tried to reconnect the network several times, each time resulting in the crash/ hang up, and getting the software error message.

If the flash is full, then not much is going to work properly.

You can use the "Files / sources" file manager to look for rogue recordings to delete.
If your flash has any folders called "movie" or "timeshift" on it, then they should be deleted.

At this point though, I would just recommend going to the latest beta firmware update.

But we also need to work out why you are not being offered the update.

Make sure that all other USB devices are unplugged when you boot up with the USB stick inserted. That can sometimes cause the T2 to not find the USB stick and firmware image files.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 00:06

I think there may be some old files lurking in there, I’ll dig through.
I was careful to keep the spare USB slot empty.

Grumpy_Geoff · Post by **Grumpy_Geoff** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 10:34

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 25, 2021 00:06
I think there may be some old files lurking in there, I’ll dig through.
I was careful to keep the spare USB slot empty.

Nah, I'm sure MrQuade was referring the the T2's flash memory.

If you go to MENU>>Information>>Memory what does it show Flash memory total & free memory as?
For reference, my T2 shows: total of 461MB and free of 274MB (I have 55MB of log files currently sitting there).

When you attempt to do a USB firmware upgrade, does it recognise the process by displaying the "press front panel channel UP button" prompt on the TV?

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 12:49

Ah, a check of memory shows RAM 231696 with 22788 free, and FLASH 461 with “0” Free !!!.
I’ve yet to check the crash log files, as above advice.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 12:51

At no stage on the several attempts to update the firmware has there been any indication that the system is recognising the USB, or files.
There has not been a request to press the up arrow.

MrQuade · Post by **MrQuade** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 13:06

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 25, 2021 12:49
Ah, a check of memory shows RAM 231696 with 22788 free, and FLASH 461 with “0” Free !!!.
I’ve yet to check the crash log files, as above advice.

Yep, I wouldn't bother looking. The crash log would normally be written to flash, but yours is exhausted.

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 25, 2021 12:51
At no stage on the several attempts to update the firmware has there been any indication that the system is recognising the USB, or files.
There has not been a request to press the up arrow.

Might just be a case of finding the right UISB stick then. The stick needs to be one that is compatible with the old USB1.1 standard, and not all new sticks are. Best bet is to use a low capacity stick that was very cheap (I'm sure we all have one or two of those kicking around).

The second trick is to make sure you are unzipping the USB image contents onto the stick such that there is a "beywonwiz" directory in the root folder. ie. you need to extract the files with the folder structure intact.

It sounds like you already have the FAT32 angle covered.

It's also entirely possible that because you are not plugging in with HDMI, you aren't seeing anything on screen at first boot. I am not 100% sure how the component connection works. Try composite if you have that available.

prl · Post by **prl** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 13:31

While it's important that the "beyonwiz" directory is at the top level on the USB stick, the firmware installer is quite tolerant of other stuff being on the stick.

My installer stick has firmware for all 5 models on it, along with other installation-related stuff like package installers for OverlayHD & Series2Folder, scripts to set up my ssh public key & to set the beta feed, and various other bits and pieces, including junk the MacOS Finder leaves lying about the place.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 14:36

The last crash file is from 22Jul21. Only one of the others, showing, is during the period I’ve had the issues. The others predate that.
The USB stick I have tried is an old Symantec with 512 mb capacity. I have also tried others with varying capacities, and ages.
Generally, I have only had the update software on the stick, having preformatted Fat32.
MrQuade suggested some videos may have been inadvertently recorded to flash.
A look at a movie folder on flash shows lots of files, some pointing to videos no longer on the HDD, some are still on the HDD.
Could not find anything suggesting timeshift recordings.
Is there any value in posting the last crash file, dated 22Jul21, or any of the others?
Cheers

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 14:40

I definitely had the unzipped files on the stick, with the beyonwiz folder.
Haven’t tried the composite video trick yet, only the component.

Paul_oz53 · Post by **Paul_oz53** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 14:57

I wonder if the flash being full is preventing the USB stick being recognised.

I'd try deleting as much as I could of unnecessary files like logs and video scraps. There must be something sizeable where it shouldn't be to fill the flash.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 15:19

My first thoughts were “what can I safely delete” in flash. MrQuade hinted at this, and, clearly there is folder called Media, HDD, which has a Movie folder with lots of TS and and other Snippets in it. Some quite old.
What is safe to delete, which might help?

adoxa · Post by **adoxa** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 15:52

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 25, 2021 14:36
Is there any value in posting the last crash file, dated 22Jul21, or any of the others?

That last one at least is empty (0.0 kB), so no.

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 25, 2021 15:19
there is folder called Media, HDD, which has a Movie folder with lots of TS and and other Snippets in it. Some quite old.
What is safe to delete, which might help?

/media/hdd/movie should be your recordings (hdd indicating the hard drive), so you probably don't want to delete those. Is there movie, timeshift or .Trash in Internal Flash? They could go.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 16:34

The “/media/hdd/movie “ I refer to is in internal flash, and contains amongst new recordings, some I deleted a long time ago.
I did find 2 files outside of this which were small strays. I deleted these and lo and behold my internal flash memory now shows 306 mb free.
I could not find movie, timeshift, or flash folders outside of the “/media/hdd/movie “ folders.
It would be nice to clean up more strays if you could suggest more locations, in internal flash.
I wonder, though, would there be enough flash memory now, to attempt a firmware update?

Grumpy_Geoff · Post by **Grumpy_Geoff** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 16:41

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 25, 2021 16:34
I wonder, though, would there be enough flash memory now, to attempt a firmware update?

With 306MB free, I'd say "yes".

For a USB thumb drive that's guaranteed to work, buy a Lexar S50 Jumpdrive USB 2.0 from Woolies. It doesn't matter what size, I use a 32GB jobbie and it has never ever failed to be detected for a firmware update on a T2, T4, and U4.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 16:47

Thanks, I’ll give it a try, wish me luck

prl · Post by **prl** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 18:21

It sounds like an experiment of filling the T2 flash deliberately and then trying a firmware update is in order.

I'm in hospital at the moment (minor procedure for a quite painful condition). I'll give it a try when I'm out, unless someone else has tried it.

To fill flash:
cat /dev/zero > /zeros
The destination file name doesn't matter, it just meeds to be on the flash filesystem.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 18:49

My update news.
The firmware update attempt failed, despite having spare flash memory.
There was no update feedback, and the about information showed no change.
I decided to try to reconnect to the network and got the dreaded crash/hang up error. Drat.
Interestingly there was still lots of memory in flash, and have a new error file created.
Further development is that after 3 weeks of connection crashes the T2 suddenly reconnected with the network independently , and timers updated.
I will attempt a firmware update again tomorrow.
I have an idea to try, and will look at the composite video idea to monitor.
Thanks for your input PRL, I hope your recovery is swift.
BTW, don’t understand how you use your code to artificially fill flash but, in reverse, how do you empty it, safely?
Cheers

Grumpy_Geoff · Post by **Grumpy_Geoff** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 19:22

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 25, 2021 18:49
I will attempt a firmware update again tomorrow.
I have an idea to try, and will look at the composite video idea to monitor.

Okay, so you've either got shit thumb drives or the firmware update prompt doesn't get displayed over component.

Try this then -
In the "beyonwiz" firmware folder, open the folder named "hde2", then locate the file named "noforce". Rename that file to "force".
Safely eject that thumb drive. Shut the T2 down to deep standby. Attach the thumb drive, and detach any USB tuner and other USB devices. Then power back on the T2. If your thumb drive is recognised, it should update the firmware.
If you don't see a display on the connected TV, then wait 15 mins, then turn off the T2 at the rear, detach the thumb drive. Power back on again and check if the firmware updated. If it didn't, go shopping at Woolies for the known good thumb drive.

peteru · Post by **peteru** » Sun Jul 25, 2021 23:57

I didn't read the whole thread, but the problem shown in the screen shot at the beginning is due to a bug that was fixed a long time ago.

Upgrade firmware to latest beta version, do not restore settings.

You need to connect the T2 HDMI output to a TV that will support 1080p/1080i/756i/756p/480p/480i input. A very old or a very cheap TV may not support all the modes. Some computer monitors may not support all of those modes either, but most will, so try the HDMI port with a monitor.

For USB firmware upgrades, the T2 MUST have the firmware on USB drive that supports USB1.1. If you don't have a USB stick that can do that, you may be able to use an old external USB HDD. The spinning rust kind of disk. They tend to work surprisingly well.

Firmware upgrade needs to be initiated using the front panel buttons, not the remote buttons. If you want to, you can rename the file noforce to force in the firmware update directory and that will unconditionally flash new firmware, without waiting for any button presses. It's a big sledge hammer, but in rare cases it solves stubborn problems.

I highly recommend not wasting your time with any alternate troubleshooting, just flash the latest beta firmware, configure from scratch and you'll be good to go.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Mon Jul 26, 2021 12:12

Thanks again to all for your continuing support, and suggestions.
I have been able to move a step further, but not yet solved.
I reviewed my USB stick set up and realised that when I unzipped the files on the stick there was a third, upper folder.
I removed the outer folder to just show the beyonwiz, and inner hde2, folder.
I used the forum version 19.3 20210704 version.
I followed the firmware update instructions, and got the press the up arrow message.
After the wait I got the remove the USB, and power off message.
I followed this but on power on , all I have got is a dead TV screen.
I tried both the HDMI, and component inputs, but only get the blank screen.
I tried the upgrade twice, with the same result.
I tried the firmware version from the Beyonwiz site: 20191106. Same result, that is, startup of upgrade works, as far as remove USB, then power down power up.
Still no result on screen.
The TV works fine with my Beyonwiz lite, using same HDMI input.
I don’t know if the upgrade to firmware defaults to HDMI out, and my old problem with this is at play but I can’t get any response from the T2 to switch back to component.
I know there is some kind of signal as the TV will say no signal if units are switched off, or detached.
My TV is an LG with no other issues.
I apologise if I have missed the obvious ( as I did with the firmware folder levels) but any suggestions would be gratefully received.
I am not game to update my other T2 ( which is still running 17.5) until I have resolved this latest development.
Cheers

Grumpy_Geoff · Post by **Grumpy_Geoff** » Mon Jul 26, 2021 12:22

If your network port is still working, then use OpenWebif to control the T2 via its "virtual" remote.

Grumpy_Geoff · Post by **Grumpy_Geoff** » Mon Jul 26, 2021 12:23

Also, try composite output if your TV has that input - I think prl has previously posted it's always output.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Mon Jul 26, 2021 12:30

Thanks for the super quick response, Grumpy_Geoff.
I will try the composite next, I hadn’t picked up on it always being on.
I’m not sure if the network port has been left on, and I don’t know how to use OpenWebif.
Is there a clear guide on how this is used, and how the control is achieved?
A pointer to this would be appreciated.
Thanks again.

Grumpy_Geoff · Post by **Grumpy_Geoff** » Mon Jul 26, 2021 13:18

Do you know the IP address of this T2, or its network name if you changed it to differentiate it from the other T2 (not its IceTV name)?

My T2 is still using its default name, thus I can access its OpenWebif web server via this browser URL - http://beyonwizt2/
Its IP address is 192.168.1.63 so I can also use http://192.168.1.63 to access OpenWebif.

Once OpenWebif (OWIF for short) is open on your T2, expand the "remote" in the left-hand pane by clicking on the angled double-headed arrow.
Then click the "MENU" button on the virtual remote.
Use the LEFT/RIGHT arrow buttons on the remote to get to the main menu's Setup option - then press OK on the virtual remote.
You should be able to follow your nose from here on.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Mon Jul 26, 2021 14:28

Thanks again.
I’ll check this out this afternoon, I haven’t yet tested the composite video either.
I tried cold starting it again with no effect but there was a fairly prolonged sound emanating from the box.
Didn’t sound like HDD grinding but a mechanical sound. Don’t know if this is normal on cold start up. It wasn’t excessively loud, but discernible, for a while.
What a learning curve!!!

Paul_oz53 · Post by **Paul_oz53** » Mon Jul 26, 2021 14:47

Grumpy_Geoff wrote: ↑
Mon Jul 26, 2021 13:18
Do you know the IP address of this T2, or its network name if you changed it to differentiate it from the other T2 (not its IceTV name)?

My T2 is still using its default name, thus I can access its OpenWebif web server via this browser URL - http://beyonwizt2/
Its IP address is 192.168.1.63 so I can also use http://192.168.1.63 to access OpenWebif.

Once OpenWebif (OWIF for short) is open on your T2, expand the "remote" in the left-hand pane by clicking on the angled double-headed arrow.
Then click the "MENU" button on the virtual remote.
Use the LEFT/RIGHT arrow buttons on the remote to get to the main menu's Setup option - then press OK on the virtual remote.
You should be able to follow your nose from here on.

Great if it works so worth a try but I suspect this may be problematic after a USB install. An upgrade ends asking the user to either restore settings or to make selections of region and later, whether to setup the network. I would expect the system to hang waiting for a response. Until these screens are satisfied, I wouldn't expect the network IP address to be set. I think the composite connection may be vital to know what's happening. Otherwise, Chrilynn2 may need an exact set of keypresses to get the network operational.

It did occur to me that the HDMI fault could be the motherboard connector is dodgy. Maybe a broken solder joint or worn contacts. I've seen a few YouTube videos of techs replacing the connectors with generic parts that are near enough matches to work.

I'd go with trying the composite method first before worrying about the HDMI port.

Grumpy_Geoff · Post by **Grumpy_Geoff** » Mon Jul 26, 2021 15:31

I have used OWIF a few times straight after a USB f/w flash to answer the restore prompt (the remote is still with warkus!). Ethernet connection of course.
But I did neglect the network name will have defaulted back.
The OP can practice on the good T2

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 15:18

Hi guys,
The saga continues.
I have now attempted the install several times, using the last 19.e versions.
I managed to connect the recalcitrant T2 to an old tv with composite input.
I first tested that the composite input worked using an old st top box, and my good T2.
This confirmed the input, and that the T2 outputs composite, without menu switching.
The bad T2 firmware update starts fine ( using composite, HDMI, or component), screen showing progress clearly.
It gets to the completion screen, requesting USB removal, and shutdown.
After the requisite wait the T2 was switched back on and then nothing.
A permanently dark screen. There is a sound reaction from the TV monitor, but no image.
I have tried leaving the T2 off for a while before reboot.
I also left the T2 on for a while (after removing the USB) before shut down, and reboot.
Nothing.
I am considering trying a firmware update from the old 17.5 version, as I can think of nothing further to try.
I am reluctant to update the good T2, whilst the other T2 has an issue.
I can think of no other alternatives.
If the bad T2s video output is faulty, why does an image show during the firmware update attempts?
I checked that composite showed on the good T2 when the menu options are accessed, just in case the they only worked with HDMI, or composite, but you could see them clearly on composite.
I appreciate everything you have suggested, so far, and would gladly consider anything new, or suggestions to what I might have overlooked.
Cheers

Paul_oz53 · Post by **Paul_oz53** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 16:37

Sounds promising despite the frustration. If the sound is a tv channel then it's working and the problem is just incorrect output on the video but you know it's capable of working.

Possibly the video resolution default values prevent the picture from displaying. You might be able to access this with Openwebif as Grumpy_Geoff suggested. If so, use the Openwebif remote to change the video resolution down to a lower setting.

If you're on Windows you can run the "netstat" command from the command prompt (must be run as administrator) to see if the T2's name appears or "netstat -n" to get the IP address, which you then type into the browser window to activate Openwebif. Note that netstat is slow but netstat -n is very fast.

Good luck!

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 16:49

Hi Paul.
The sound comment may have been misleading.
What I meant was that there was a thump from the TV when I switched on the T2 to try the reboot.
There is no actual sound coming from the T2, other than that.
Whilst I can access the good T2 from OWIF( thanks Grumpy_Geoff), there is no indication that the bad T2 is detected, or connected to the network.
Sorry for the confusion.
I’ve left the bad T2 switched on to see if it bursts into life (nil desperandum), but nothing so far.

prl · Post by **prl** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 17:40

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 27, 2021 15:18
The bad T2 firmware update starts fine ( using composite, HDMI, or component), screen showing progress clearly.

There isn't really much of a boot progress indication on the T2. Do you mean you see the big Beyonwiz "button" screen and then the "bubbles" screen, and then the spinner coming on briefly towards the end of the time the bubbles screen is on?

The T2 (all models in fact) have separate frame buffers for the video and for the UI overlay.

I think that the "big button" is on the overlay frame buffer, the "bubbles" screen is a single "movie" frame and is shown on the video frame buffer, and then once ithe T2 firmware is up and running, the video is shown in the video frame buffer, and the UI (and subtitles) are shown in the overlay frame buffer.

It's possible that the overlay frame buffer is OK, but the video frame buffer is broken, but it's hard to be sure from your description (and because of my lack of certainty about exactly which frame buffers are used in the startup sequence).

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 27, 2021 15:18
It gets to the completion screen, requesting USB removal, and shutdown.
After the requisite wait the T2 was switched back on and then nothing.
A permanently dark screen. There is a sound reaction from the TV monitor, but no image.

After the update completes and the restart begins, do you see the "big button" and "bubbles" screens displayed, or is it black all the way? And after the startup has finished, do you, for example, see the infobar if you press OK?

Once the T2 is fully running, if you see the infobar, but you don't see video, these are most likely causes:
There is no TV signal (you can check for that by looking at the signal strength bar in the infobar (top bar). If the signal strength indicator is right down near the left-hand end, or the box is blank, you have no usable signal. Perhaps something happened with the antenna cabling, or perhaps the tuner electronics are dead, in a way that the tuner is detected by the firmware, but produces no video output.

If there is good video signal in the infobar, then the problem is in the video decoding or the video frame buffer, but probably not in the video mixer that produces the combined video signal for the TV screen, or in the HDMI drivers.

It's odd that that Open Webif can't connect to the T2. Can you "ping" the T2?

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 27, 2021 15:18
I am considering trying a firmware update from the old 17.5 version, as I can think of nothing further to try.
I am reluctant to update the good T2, whilst the other T2 has an issue.

I'm running the 19.3 release 20210710 on my test T2 without any problems. I haven't updated to the most recent firmware for the T2, because I've been in hospital (mainly waiting) for a small procedure. But I wouldn't hesitate to do the update myself.

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 27, 2021 15:18
If the bad T2s video output is faulty, why does an image show during the firmware update attempts?

One possibility is that the TV reception part of the T2 has failed, another is that the video framebuffer and the decoders that feed it have failed. I haven't found enough information in your posts to decide which it might be. or whether it's something else entirely.

Paul_oz53 · Post by **Paul_oz53** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 18:50

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 27, 2021 16:49
Hi Paul.
The sound comment may have been misleading.
What I meant was that there was a thump from the TV when I switched on the T2 to try the reboot.
There is no actual sound coming from the T2, other than that.
Whilst I can access the good T2 from OWIF( thanks Grumpy_Geoff), there is no indication that the bad T2 is detected, or connected to the network.
Sorry for the confusion.
I’ve left the bad T2 switched on to see if it bursts into life (nil desperandum), but nothing so far.

Nothing to be sorry about. We assume that you got some video during the update so there's still a glimmer of hope. As prl explains, how video is processed is complicated. The best option is to exhaust the possibility of connecting via the network.

If you are on a Windows network run the netstat -n command. I understand it exists in macOS too but I'm not sure if the -n option exists. Plain netstat should give you names whereas -n gives IP addresses.

Type "command" into the search box. Top of the list should be Command Prompt. Right-click on it and select "Run as Administrator". Type in netstat -n. You get a list of Foreign Addresses. Try each local IP in turn to see if the sickly T2 responds. If it does then there's hope.

You can then access the Menu from there and try different options for Menu>>Setup>>AV setup>>AV settings

prl wrote:... I haven't updated to the most recent firmware for the T2, because I've been in hospital (mainly waiting) for a small procedure. But I wouldn't hesitate to do the update myself.

Hope it goes well prl - I know only too well how hospitals run to a different clock to the real world!

Paul_oz53 · Post by **Paul_oz53** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 19:03

One other thought - if you unplug the composite out from the yellow RCA socket and put it in the green Y socket do you get a picture?

prl · Post by **prl** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 21:08

Paul_oz53 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 27, 2021 18:50
Hope it goes well prl - I know only too well how hospitals run to a different clock to the real world!

Thanks. It was done last night, and I'm back home now. No issues other than the most common, annoyance-level side-effects.

However, it's the first step in a three-step process. But the next two steps will be appointments, not extended day surgery via emergency.

prl · Post by **prl** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 21:12

netstat -n
is available on MacOS via Terminal.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 21:29

Wow, a lot to mull over.
Need to get my head around the info, particularly command prompt actions.
One quick thing, I tried the plug the composite into the green output but there was no discernible difference, certainly no images.
One thing that may be relevant. During the firmware update stage there are no images between the first screen requesting pressing the up arrow, and the final image requesting the removal of the USB and reboot.
In the several minutes between these there is just a blank screen in a bright greenish, or bluish colour. There are no other images in this period.
I thought it would not be possible to detect the unit unless it had been connected to the network, not just plugged into the lan.
Thanks for your continuing interest, and feedback.

MrQuade · Post by **MrQuade** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 21:59

Chrilynn2 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 27, 2021 21:29
In the several minutes between these there is just a blank screen in a bright greenish, or bluish colour. There are no other images in this period.
I thought it would not be possible to detect the unit unless it had been connected to the network, not just plugged into the lan.

Yea, that's not normal either.

I think the suggestions at this point have just about run their course. There is definitely some hardware fault with your "bad" T2, and it is possibly just getting worse. At this point I don't think there is much chance of working around this in a software-only fashion. Time to retire it I think.

You shouldn't have any problem updating your other "good" T2.

peteru · Post by **peteru** » Tue Jul 27, 2021 23:18

First things first, try a different HDMI cable and different HDMI input on your TV. If you can get a low resolution (PAL) signal, but not HD signal over HDMI, it could indicate a poor connection/cabling.

Please also provide a video of the TV screen during the USB firmware update process. The sequence of colours and timing are significant. A properly working USB update will show information on the screen by loading the required images from the updater USB drive. If those images can not be loaded, it means that there is a problem reading data off the USB drive. Various colours are then used to indicate what is happening. When I wrote the updater part of the bootloader I tried to anticipate some of these complications. If I see the video, I can cross check against the code and get a better idea of what's going on.

Chrilynn2 · Post by **Chrilynn2** » Wed Jul 28, 2021 10:10

I have considered MrQuade’s position on maybe it’s the end of the road for the bad T2, and prepared to salvage the HDD.
Peteru offers a further line of enquiry which is worth pursuing, so I will run another firmware update and try to video that.
Just a couple of thoughts.
I have already tried various combinations of output, and monitoring, including, trying various HDMI cables in various inputs, and tvs.
I have tried the HDMI cable arrangement , side by side with the good T2. The good T2 shows an image with composite output, whereas the bad T2 does not.
The original problem of HDMI output from the bad T2 was resolved with component output.
The issue got this thread started was that the bad T2 lost network connection, and crashed on attempts to resolve this.
It rebooted ok, but still crashed if reconnection attempts were made.
Checks of the flash drive showed it to be full.
When I cleared space in the flash drive, the T2 spontaneously reconnected to the network, and all my timers reset.
I ran the firmware upgrade but because I didn’t set the USB stick up correctly, of course it didn’t work, and the T2 rebooted ok, without any software changes.
It was only when I ran the firmware update correctly that the issue with the dead screen, non boot up occurred.
I have tried both 19.3 versions, with the same effect.
Peteru, is there any value in trying 17.5 again.
I also note you mention the bootlogger. Should this be reinstalled again first before the new firmware, or was that a one off with the 16 and 17 upgrades?
So many options, and permutations, including the possibility I have corrupted the new firmware upgrades on download, or transfer to USB stick.

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