Beyonwiz AD055H018 MODEL PSU Repair - UPDATE 25-09-2012

[tonymy01]

tonymy01 - I think you did do it. If you got a bottle of Makers Mark for it then it was you.

Yep, that would be me. The goop is simply a silicon adhesive like substance to stop component vibration/movement & insulation to stop potentially contacting a nearby component, which in the high voltage side of the switch mode power supply (the parts to the right of the 2 yellow banded transformers) could have fatal results (to the PSU, or the house fuse, or the whole house if it catches fire!!).

Don't completely rule out the PSU though, they have been known to blow a diode I believe. Yep, found the post: UF5042 D11 http://www.beyonwiz.com.au/phpbb2/viewt ... iode#93255 (also D12 and D13 mentioned in another thread, but that is a DP-P2).

But your HDD doesn't sound too crash hot if it is not spinning and making horrible noises.

edit: why is my BB quoting not working any more?? I don't have BBCode disabled??

[sub3R]

The white goop may be factory original.
...

Looks like it. The photos of my S1 power supplies shows silicon on the exact same components.

[warkus]

The Silicone is normal, and is found on all models of wiz PSU, the S1 having the most though. Nothing to worry about and definitely not a cause of your problems.

The S1 machines (unlike the newer models) will fire up with no HDD in them and work as a non recording STB. Make sure the DVD is not connected either and try to power your machine up, it should power up fine, assuming the small red/black loop cable that normally connects just in front of your HDD power cable is still connected and the other end plugged into the mainboard. If you have removed that small double adaptor / addon cable, you will get an error 0000 on the machine so plug it back in first.

Mark

[JamesP]

Looks like the PSU is fine after all as I turned it on without the HD in as mentioned and it's working fine.

Off to the HD shop tomorrow I guess.

[sub3R]

edit: why is my BB quoting not working any more?? I don't have BBCode disabled??

See my comments in test forum here .

[brianh]

Looks like the PSU is fine after all as I turned it on without the HD in as mentioned and it's working fine.

Off to the HD shop tomorrow I guess.

Could be that a faulty HDD's current draw will drag down a few voltages and give the impression of PSU struggling..... your post that it runs OK without the HDD seems to support this.....

[brianh]

Just taking the S1 apart and noticed slight crowning on the following Sam Young cap:

C52 - 16v, 1200 uF

Any idea what this one controls?

[warkus]

It's one on my list to add, the new replacement list is now 14 capacitors in total.

They are getting older, and failing more spectaculatly as they age.

The cap you refer to "usually" fails when one of the diodes underneath shorts out.

Turn your PSU over, and one of the 2 diodes that are covered in cheap heat proof shielding will probably have shorted out onto the leg of another component. This happens quite often as they are getting older. I lift the diode leg up and then bend the other components leg out of the way by resoldering it in the opposite direction and thus leaving a nice big space free for the diode to sit across the PCB with no possibility of shorting. Over time with heat the component leg pierces through the heat shielding of the diode leg, so best to prevent that altogether. The 1200uf cap is usually blown on virtually any PSU I see that has a diode leg shorting. These are all things I want to add to the guide.

Not for lack of desire I promise, but just have not had the time to even attempt any update to it lately. Hopefully I will get time soon.

Based on the fact that the occurrence of these issues have been relatively few up until the last few months I have not given it a priority, but think it is definitely time to get it updated.

Only problem is, it takes "ME" over 2 hours now to do an old style S1 PSU properly to a point where I would be happy to send it back. It is no longer a simple repair for people that may have basic cap replacement skills. It's a full on job.

Over 50% of the PSU board needs resoldering too, as the board is usually covered in dry joints as well.

Usually need to replace the IDE cable and the DVD drive belt on the units too, and a few regulators (or at least one) on the maihboard too, and the crystal on the front panel too...

AAAARRRRRRRHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

As they age, they are getting harder and harder to maintain. But I still do them, and still only charge a minimal amount for the service too, just really love to keep these things going... Can't bring myself to give up on them.


Mark

[brianh]

Thanks Mark - at least I can manage, as long as I know what the hell it is I'm attacking... is this cap is in part of a circuit that's involved in the psychedelic static output?

[sub3R]

...
Not for lack of desire I promise, but just have not had the time to even attempt any update to it lately. Hopefully I will get time soon.
...

Hi Mark,
Some time ago I decided to replace all remaining electros on both S1 power supplies that wasn’t listed in your original instruction (including your list, a total of 23 per power supply). These were replaced with caps that Element14 had in stock in Sydney at the time (Panasonics & Rubycons). I have an almost complete list of all these caps in a MS Word document along with a digital photo identifying the caps by numbers - if this info is any use to you just let me know & I’ll sent it through.

Brian ... if this list & photo would help you, let me know - but you would need to send me an email address via a PM.

[brianh]

PM sent,

Thanks

[warkus]

Thanks for the offer Dennis,

I have the cap details though so no need. Only about 14 or 15 of them will affect the operation of the wiz, replacing the 1uf and similar caps is not required.

The guide has already been modified (PDF) on my system, and with some more tweeks this weekend and extra pics I have already taken it will be updated then time permitting.

"fingers crossed"

Thanks anyway.

[sub3R]

... Only about 14 or 15 of them will affect the operation of the wiz, replacing the 1uf and similar caps is not required.
...

I suspected at the time that the small caps didn’t matter - I have been known for being too fussy with most of my projects & repairs.

BTW ... I hope you didn’t think I was trying to put pressure on you to update your instruction - that wasn’t the intention.

[sub3R]

Hi Mark. I just noticed your latest revision – an excellent job, you’ve obviously put a lot of work into that.

I came across your latest revision by accident, I was looking through your topic again to see what reference you made to the later 320GB DP-S1 power supplies. I recently purchased a refurbished 320GB DP-S1 from DealSpace & this has a ‘Power Bridge, Date: 2007.07.22, Model: IP-108 (IP-108C), Rev:9.0’ power supply, whereas our original older DP-S1s have ‘A&D Corp., AD055H81B (I’m not 100% certain of that number), 2006.8, Rev:03’ power supplies, the same as in your guide. The different board layout threw me for a while.

[prl]

Is the new power supply more efficient than the old one, especially on standby power*? A long time ago I measured (using CCI PowerMate) the standby power on our DP-S1 as 4.5W.

* Yes, it's unclear how much of the standby power is down to losses in the power supply and how much is actually used by the front panel, but the power supply area of he enclosure is still distinctly warm in standby.

[warkus]

Hi Dennis,

You have the (probably last batch) newer style S1. There was not all that many of them compared to the older style S1.

You have the same PSU in yours as the P1, Lite & FV-L1.

Funny you should mention it because I am just doing up a guide for that PSU now...

And the P2 (Different PSU again.


Hope to have them ready to upload within 2 weeks time permitting.

Mark

[warkus]

Hi Peter,

I dont know about more efficient, they still get very hot!!!



It's not a new PSU so to speak, its the same as the P1 & all other models besides the P2.

For anyone thinking of installing one in place of the older style (not that I think you can even get them anymore) be aware that you will need to change a zero ohm resistor on your mainboard first. There is basically a resistor switch on the mainboard setting it to either the newer style or older style.

The P1 uses the same mainboard as the S1, and the resistor is just installed in the opposite spot to where it is in an S1 with older style PSU.

IIRC, the red wire on the older style PSU is actually a ground wire believe it or not and 12v is fed to the mainboard via the small cable running off your HDD power cable.

In the newer style PSU the red wire is 12v and there is no extra wire connecting to the mainboard from the HDD power cable.

The resistor switch on the mainboard obviously caters for the difference.

Mark

[sub3R]

Hi Mark.
That’s valuable information about the main board resistor & the 12V supply - thanks.
I must make a note of all that seeing the 320GB S1 was purchased as a spare, or as a last resort, spare parts for the other two S1s.
Now that you mention it, I remember that red ground wire & the 12V supply from the HDD cable to the main board.

Peter ... when I get a chance I’ll measure the standby current & voltage (I don’t have a CCI PowerMate), but it may not be a fair comparison as the 320GB S1 appears to use a different display type to the earlier models.

[warkus]

Hi Dennis,

I think the display is essentially the same, but different backlight colour from memory.

Should still be a fair comparison.


Mark

[sub3R]

Thanks Mark. I thought that may be the situation so I gave myself an out with ‘appears to use’. And yes, dull pale blue vs brighter green.

[sub3R]

Is the new power supply more efficient than the old one, especially on standby power*? A long time ago I measured (using CCI PowerMate) the standby power on our DP-S1 as 4.5W.
...

Peter ... when I get a chance I’ll measure the standby current & voltage (I don’t have a CCI PowerMate), but it may not be a fair comparison as the 320GB S1 appears to use a different display type to the earlier models.

I finally got around to doing this.

Original DP-S1 with 500GB HDD:
In Standby: 27.0mA on 100mA range at 233V8. ... (approx 6.3VA)
On with SC10 OneHD being displayed (timeshift enabled): 120mA on 1A range at 233V8. ... (approx 28VA)
On with SC10 OneHD & ABC News24 being recorded: 121mA on 1A range at 233V8. ... (approx 28.3VA)

Refurbished later model DP-S1 with 320GB HDD:
In Standby: 39.5mA on 100mA range at 234V8. ... (approx 9.3VA)
On with SC10 OneHD being displayed (timeshift enabled): 121mA on 1A range at 234V8. ... (approx 28.4VA)
On with SC10 OneHD & ABC News24 being recorded: 124mA on 1A range at 234V8. ... (approx 29.1VA)

Comments:
Current was measured on an AVO 8 Mk3 analogue multimeter (handbook info: AC current 2.25% of full-scale value over effective range, the effective range is 0.25 of scale-range to full-scale value).
Voltage was measured on a Digitech QM-1536 True RMS digital multimeter (3 3/4 digit, 4000 count, +/- 1.0% +5 accuracy).
The above instruments haven’t been serviced or calibrated for many years so the accuracy could be out.
Measurements were taken twice on both S1s over a 30 minute period with identical settings & cables used (just swapped the S1s & used the same connections). Neither S1 had been turned ON from Standby for some time. Outside ambient temperature at the time was approx 19 degrees (slightly cooler inside the house).
Original DP-S1 with 500GB HDD details:
I refurbished the power supply (A&D Corp.) just over 12 mths ago (replaced all electro caps). Fitted a 500GB SATA Western Digital WD5002ABYS RE3 Enterprise HDD & Altronics SATA to IDE Converter module D2335. Replaced the RTC capacitor with a supercap.
Refurbished later model DP-S1 with 320GB HDD details:
320GB IDE 7200rpm Seagate ST3320820ACE HDD. Later model power supply (Power Bridge, Date: 2007.07.22, Model: IP-108 (IP-108C), Rev:9.0). This has a different coloured front display to the above original DP-S1. No modifications.

[prl]

Pretty disappointing that the the newer power supply draws even more standby power than the the already pretty poorly performing older power supply.

[sub3R]

Yes, I expected the newer supplies to be more efficient. In fact I thought I had misread the standby current of the original S1 when I saw 39.5mA standby for the S1 with the later power supply – the reason why I did the tests twice.

[prl]

A former colleague built his own LED light set for his bike, using a switched mode constant-current power supply of his own design. He got it down to only a few percent loss. He was a software engineer, not an electrical engineer. He wasn't even a software engineer who specialised in embedded systems. If a smart amateur can make a power supply like that, why can't a power supply manufacturer?

[IanSav]

Hi Peter,

If a smart amateur can make a power supply like that, why can't a power supply manufacturer?

Cost!

Regards,
Ian.

[sub3R]

I agree, Ian. And perhaps Beyonwiz didn’t specify how the power supply should perform at low load (standby).

My VA figures with the S1 ON seems too low compared to your 30 - 31W, Peter. Allowing for the power factor I expected them to be a fair bit higher than the wattage figures. Although, I don’t think the AVO’s current readings at the bottom end of the 1A range would be that accurate - so this could be the reason.

[UncleBuck]

Hi Dennis,

You have the (probably last batch) newer style S1. There was not all that many of them compared to the older style S1.

You have the same PSU in yours as the P1, Lite & FV-L1.

Funny you should mention it because I am just doing up a guide for that PSU now...

And the P2 (Different PSU again.


Hope to have them ready to upload within 2 weeks time permitting.

Mark

Hi Mark,
Any word on this yet? I don't mean to be a pest but I have had my S1 in pieces now for about 4 weeks (which is when I discovered I had the different PSU and after I had purchased all the caps for the original PSU )

[warkus]

Yes it is basically ready to upload.

I can't do so though until I get back to the office, probably at least Wednesday.


PM me though and I can go through it with you.

Mark

[Hales]

warkus,

You are indeed the true guru.
I followed your repair instructions and my DP-S1 is working better then when it was purchased new.

After doing the repairs you suggested to the PSU I also upgraded the HDD with a 1TB SATA drive (yes there is just enough space for the adapter purchased from Ebay)

Overly joyed

Haley

[BarryGuff]

Just wanted to mention that Mark sent me a Beyonwiz DP Lite i power supply that I needed, and it all works great and I'm totally happy with the result. I thoroughly recommend him for any Beyonwiz repair work.

[tonymy01]

Good to know he is still in the repairing game, he is definitely very helpful!

[awoods]

It's been five years since this thread was posted into, but just wanted to again thank Warkus for making this repair guide available.
It's invaluable!
My DP-S1 started acting up recently and I figured the PSU must be dying, again.
The main fault was that the hard drive wasn't coming up when the DP-S1 started. If I turned the wiz off and on, the HDD would come up.
I replaced the caps in my DP-S1 PSU maybe five years ago and it had been going strong ever since.
At that time it looks like I only replaced some of the bigger caps, but not the full list in this article.
This time I replaced all the caps cited in this article.
When I replaced the bigger caps five years ago, I used caps from Altronics.
This time I tested all the caps I removed with an ESR meter.
The low-ESR caps I'd used from Altronics 5 years ago were all OK, however the smaller caps I hadn't replaced the first time were quite bad, some really bad.
Replacing all the cited caps has brought the DP-S1 back to life.
Thanks again Mark!!!

There is one strange thing still happening with my DP-S1. The EPG is occasionally coming up blank. I am using iceTV. Deleting the EPG cache gets it back again. I'd hoped the PSU renovation would solve this issue, but perhaps it's actually a problem with the flash memory, which Warkus had mentioned as the source of another problem on a DP-P1.