Beyonwiz AD055H018 MODEL PSU Repair - UPDATE 25-09-2012

Beyonwiz HD PVR / Network Media Players including Freeview models.

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grampus
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Post by grampus » Fri Dec 24, 2010 15:10

Geoffh wrote:I don't have your email Mark.

in the photo...there seems to be a few blobs of white stuff on different parts of the board but I can't see any swelling on the caps.



[/img]
Just in case Mark has disappeared for the festive bits 'n pieces.
Use the pm icon at the bottom of his post.
That'll get you going.
The swelling on the caps are sometimes not easy to notice without a magnifier, or for my old eyes that was the case
http://www.beyonwiz.com.au/phpbb2/viewt ... 87&start=0
Check the photos out here.
Screen: Panasonic TH-60ST60A; BeyonWiz U4; T3; Panasonic BD-35 Blu_Ray player

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error 0000 perth

Post by lorry » Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:50

Hi - saw this post.
just got the dreaded error.

who do you recommend i get in touch with to repair the unit

its a couple of years old DP-S!

Thanks

Lorry

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Post by tonymy01 » Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:57

You are in Perth! Mark Warkus, the main guy who does the repairs lives there.
Tony

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Post by Geoffh » Mon Mar 28, 2011 01:12

A big thanks to Mark (Warkus) for his patience and expertise in trying to sort out my S1 problems.

What seemed to be software related problems turned out to be the power supply problem.

Mark has repaired my power supply and it has been running smoothly for a few days now so hopefully it is all good now.

There was no visible signs of problems with the power supply but apparently it was not behaving the way it should have and Mark repaired it.

Thanks again Mark

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Post by ughboot » Tue Mar 29, 2011 13:41

A huge thanks to Warkus, I just followed the repair guide with great success.
If anyone needs some caps to do it I have some left over Panasonic brand you can have if you want to pick them up from the central coast nsw.
I could also post at your expense.

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Post by martymonster » Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:37

Another happy customer.
Just re-installed the power supply that Markus fixed for me.
I can now read the display.....
Hopefully the new 500GB SATA HDD I ordered from him will arrive today.
Now to back up the files so I can restore them onto the new drive.

Thanks again for your help.

Martin
:D

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warkus
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Post by warkus » Sun Apr 03, 2011 15:54

To all the people that told me the pictures in the repair thread had dissappeared - A big thanks.

Sorry about that.

I have hosted them in a new location now and they are back up for viewing...


Mark

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Mork
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Thanks heaps !!!

Post by Mork » Mon Apr 18, 2011 18:10

Warkus... Thanks heaps for your Post. My DP-S1 failed rapidly over the last week. A read of your sticky was a lifesaver. Placed an order with Element14 on Friday, got all Panasonic FM Series delvered today.

The only challange was fitting the new, but wider 1000uF and 1500uF cluster of 3 Caps in the middle of the board. Did not want the 1500uF Caps sitting against the heat sink or the 100Ohm High power resistor. So with a bit of leg bending (Not referring to my wifey here) managed to get some reasonable clearance with the caps stood off about 8mm from the PCB. Given this is a low/no vibration device, should be OK.

P.S. I hate RoHS soldered PCB's.
Back to the Forum with a new V2. (RIP my ever trusty DP-S1 and DP-Lite) :D

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More than a job well done

Post by Bill Smallwood » Sat May 14, 2011 11:48

I would like to add my voice of appreciation to those above.
Warkus repaired my power supply, but more than that, he made would could have been a routine, or even risky transaction into a real pleasure. He was generous with his communication and progress reports, and helpful in all respects. May he prosper and enjoy his business. Bill

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Post by Sprigo » Sat May 21, 2011 08:46

Hi, I have got a refurb P2 from CoTD and it has just come up with Error 0001, could this be due to a PSU cap failure?
If I put it into standby and wait a couple of minutes I can restart it but it only runs for a minute or so before the picture breaks up and eventually locks up.

It is under warranty from CoTD but I think they will probably just refund my money. As I will probably need to freight it back to them at my expense it might be worth my while to have a look inside if you think it is cap related.

Thanks
David

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warkus
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Post by warkus » Sat May 21, 2011 10:01

Hi there,


No this is very unlikely to be a capacitor or power supply problem. It will be a faulty hard drive almost for sure 100%.

Capacitor problems with P1 & P2 machines are very few and far between and usually only occur when people have put their machine in a sealed cupboard or covered the air holes on the top, which most people dont do.

It is not ccompletely out of the question I gues, but being that your machine is a refurb, I am pretty sure DPG would have repaired or replaced the PSU in the machine if it was a capacitor issue, they should have anyway.

It is far more likely to be a HDD issue, especially if you have heard clunking noises coming from the machine, which I think I read you did in the other thread.

So you can either replace the HDD yourself and void the warranty or send back for most likely a credit... If you have a spare SATA HDD lying around, you can test the theory first, but still once opened they will probably not take it back.

Mark

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Post by prl » Sat May 21, 2011 10:57

As I've said a couple of times on the topic of COTD's "refund only" warranty, the ACCC says that your statutory warranty allows you to choose refund, replacement or repair at your discretion.
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warkus
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Post by warkus » Sat May 21, 2011 11:08

I agree Peter, they "should" be offering a replacement unit, but if they have no more to offer, then this can not be enforced.

They will simply claim they have run out and therefore are offering a full refund instead.

This is highly likely the case, as I bet they did not keep a percentage of stock for warranty and it is very unlikely DPG have any more.

As for repair, that is very true. They should be accepting them back and organising for repair through DPG directly themselves. The downside to this is the time that this process would most likely take for the end user.

I dont imagine it would be a quick turnaround at all. They still should be offering to do this though, agreed.

Mark

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Post by prl » Sat May 21, 2011 17:54

warkus wrote:I agree Peter, they "should" be offering a replacement unit, but if they have no more to offer, then this can not be enforced.

They will simply claim they have run out and therefore are offering a full refund instead.

This is highly likely the case, as I bet they did not keep a percentage of stock for warranty and it is very unlikely DPG have any more.

As for repair, that is very true. They should be accepting them back and organising for repair through DPG directly themselves. The downside to this is the time that this process would most likely take for the end user.

I dont imagine it would be a quick turnaround at all. They still should be offering to do this though, agreed.

Mark
Not "should". Must.
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Post by Gully » Sat May 21, 2011 23:48

I really doubt that there is any legal remedy that could force a retailer to provide a replacement when they do not have one available. It would be different if they still had stock.

In the end, it will be a matter of looking at the spirit of the law rather than the actual wording and seeing as they are offering a full refund, I doubt the law would expect any more (perhaps the cost of returning it :D )
Cheers
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Post by prl » Sun May 22, 2011 10:52

Gully wrote:I really doubt that there is any legal remedy that could force a retailer to provide a replacement when they do not have one available. It would be different if they still had stock.
Dealspace currently has 18 refurbished P2s in stock. Dealspace could easily buy one as a replacement.
Gully wrote:In the end, it will be a matter of looking at the spirit of the law rather than the actual wording and seeing as they are offering a full refund, I doubt the law would expect any more (perhaps the cost of returning it :D )
I think that that's exactly what the ACCC (who administer this law) is trying to do when it's writes:
For major problems with goods

If there is a major failure with the goods, you can:
  • reject the goods and get a refund
  • reject the goods and get an identical replacement, or one of similar value if reasonably available, or
  • keep the goods and get compensation for the drop in value caused by the problem.
You get to choose, not the supplier or manufacturer.
[My emphasis on the last line]

And it doesn't matter that these are refurbished items:
The consumer guarantees apply whether the goods are new, 'seconds' or second-hand.
The dealer's warranty can't take away these rights.
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Post by brianh » Sun May 22, 2011 12:04

prl wrote:
Gully wrote:I really doubt that there is any legal remedy that could force a retailer to provide a replacement when they do not have one available. It would be different if they still had stock.
Dealspace currently has 18 refurbished P2s in stock. Dealspace could easily buy one as a replacement.
Gully wrote:In the end, it will be a matter of looking at the spirit of the law rather than the actual wording and seeing as they are offering a full refund, I doubt the law would expect any more (perhaps the cost of returning it :D )
I think that that's exactly what the ACCC (who administer this law) is trying to do when it's writes:
For major problems with goods

If there is a major failure with the goods, you can:
  • reject the goods and get a refund
  • reject the goods and get an identical replacement, or one of similar value if reasonably available, or
  • keep the goods and get compensation for the drop in value caused by the problem.
You get to choose, not the supplier or manufacturer.
[My emphasis on the last line]

And it doesn't matter that these are refurbished items:
The consumer guarantees apply whether the goods are new, 'seconds' or second-hand.
The dealer's warranty can't take away these rights.
Peter, I agree entirely about this being the customer's right. People need to know what their rights are.

However I tend to agree with Gully that in practice it will come down to what's achievable, it's one thing to be in the right, it's another thing to be able to enforce your rights. It's a bit like having right of way over a semi trailer when you drive a mini moke - you might be in the right, but the fight might cost you more than the argument is worth.

The following excerpt from the Choice website gives their guidance for consumers and highlights the need to be willing to negotiate to get a mutually acceptable outcome:

"Explain the problem

You should contact the store where you purchased the goods or service. You should explain, either in person or in writing, what the problem is and why you are dissatisfied with the goods or service. See our handy tools for a guide to what you may need to cover.

Suggest a solution

You should then suggest the solution that you would prefer ? repair, replace, refund or for services, have it redone. Ideally, you should be able to come to a mutual agreement with the retailer about the solution, based on your preference. You are entitled to a solution which puts you in the same situation as if the problem had never happened. For goods this may mean repair, refund or replacement, For services, you can ask for the job to be redone or to be paid for the costs of having it redone.

If the retailer is unable to meet your wishes it is reasonable to try and negotiate a solution acceptable to you.

The retailer should provide a temporary product


When you choose to have a product repaired, or replaced, the retailer should offer the customer a temporary replacement till the product is fixed, or the replacement has been provided, to cover any inconvenience.

The retailer should meet cost of transport/freight

If the retailer requires you to send the product to be repaired, replaced or refunded, the retailer should cover this cost.

If you are dissatisfied with the retailer?s response, you can take your complaint to the next level. Ask whether more senior staff at the retailer can review your situation or contact the state/territory consumer protection bodies agency.

State and Territory Offices of Fair Trading and Consumer Affairs

You can make a complaint to their State or Territory Office of Fair Trading, or Consumer Affairs agency. These agencies consider customer complaints and try to resolve them through conciliation with the trader. If they are unable to help, you may need to take your problem to the small claims court - the agency will explain how."
Cheers,
Brian


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Post by prl » Sun May 22, 2011 12:22

I agree with Choice's advice about making use of the statutory warranty. However, there seems to have been an assumption that people's rights here are limited to what's in COTD's warranty. That's not so.

I'd have thought that in this case, return for repair would be a reasonable outcome if a replacement can't be provided in a reasonable amount of time. I don't think there's good reason to assume a priori that a replacement can't be provided.
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Post by Sprigo » Sun May 22, 2011 21:03

Thanks for the reply's guys, I have sent an email to CoTD asking them how to proceed.
I will be trying to have them pick up the freight back but I don't know if I can enforce it as that is only Choice's thoughts.

if the freight is too high I might think about swapping out the HDD myself.
I did hear a sound like it spun down the other night, but if I start up the P2 it does a HDD check and comes out OK, I have played a file from the drive but eventually the P2 locks up after about a minute. I have disabled time shift, and it will even lock up while I am in the setup menu.

When I say lockup the screen goes black, the P2 ignores all button presses except for the off button, if I press it after 5 seconds or so it shuts down. If i reboot it will start up do a HDD check and then lock up even quicker.

Even after being unplugged for 24 hours it locked up within a minute or 2.

I tried to transfer some files off the drive via WizFX but it locked up about a quarter of the way thru.

I will see what CoTD say and go from there.

David

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Post by brianh » Sun May 22, 2011 21:43

Hi Sprigo,

The above is not just Choice's thoughts, they are YOUR RIGHTS. There is some good advice there about the best way to approach getting what you are entitled to. Obviously remain calm and remind the retailer of your rights, reminding them that you want to work with them to get an agreed outcome. If they seem totally uninformed remind them that you are prepared to involve Fair Trading or Consumer Affairs departments but that really you just want what you are entitled to that is within their capability.

Of course if they are reasonable from the outset then all's well, but don't just cave in to whatever they say if you don't like it. Jot down a few bullet points as a script and be prepared to remind them of their obligations.

And let us know how you get on....
Cheers,
Brian


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Post by Billzilla » Fri Jun 24, 2011 19:14

Huge thanks to Warkus for the guide on how to replace the capacitors.
My DP-S1 failed yesterday with the 'ERROR 0000' and my search here found this thread. I've replaced all the recommended capacitors except for the 1500uf ones as I simply cannot get them here on the Gold Coast. I have ordered some from a company in Sydney but they won't get here until Monday some time - In the mean time I'll try joining a 1000uf and 470uf together and see how that goes temporarily, as it still has the same error at the moment.
The drives seem like they're spinning-up but there's still the error message.
The funny thing is that it happened after a power outage, which I knew was coming, so I turned the box off to sleep, then after the power came back on I tried to power it up normally and just got the ERROR 0000 message.

Any guesses on whether replacing the two 1500uf capacitors with good ones will work? Or do I have a dead box?

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Post by warkus » Fri Jun 24, 2011 20:36

Hi there,

Yes replacing the 1500uf caps will solve the issue. These are the main caps that fail and they are the cause of the Error 0000 as well.

Do not join caps and do not use the unit until they are replaced, it simply isnt worth the risk. You can do more damage than good.

It isnt real a surprise that a power failure brought the error on, its quite normal for that to be the case, once the caps cool down, they will fail badly on startup again.

Get the proper replacements in and finish it off, and as long as you have replaced all the caps correctly, you will be happy with the result.


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Post by Billzilla » Fri Jun 24, 2011 21:36

Thanks very much again for that.

FWIW when I measured the voltage of the big 400v capacitor, shortly after I'll pulled the plug out of the wall, it was only 3 volts. That's also associated with the 1500uf's failing I hope?

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Post by Billzilla » Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:09

I ended up having to try the 1000uf + 470uf capacitors joined together to try to make it work - there's too much stuff we need to do that needs the BW box - so I gave it a go and it now works again.
It's only a temporary fix until I get the proper capacitors next week, then I'll fix it permanently.

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Post by Nixay » Mon Jun 27, 2011 18:20

After four years of faithful service from my DP-S1, it's time for me to read this sticky post. Quite impressed actually that I've made it this far without problems.

Now I've got regular HDD checks (even had one spin-down during playback once) and some erratic HDMI issues. Opened the lid and indeed there is a swollen cap - same one as in the pic in the OP actually.

So, time to get my solder on.....

Nixay.

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Error 0000 on DP-S1

Post by raymundy » Wed Aug 10, 2011 22:11

greetings Mark,

I have the 0000 error code on my DP-S1 and do not feel I have enough knowledge to repair it myself. I live in Adelaide and was wondering if there is anyone in Adelaide that I can take my Beyonwiz to for repair.

I await your reply and thank you for your assistance through this forum

Regards
Ray

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Post by warkus » Wed Aug 17, 2011 18:02

Hi raymundy,


I have replied to your PM that you sent me a week ago, but as yet it has not been read by you.

Thought I would mention it in case you were not aware of my reply and were therefore under the impression I had ignored you, not so...


Mark
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Post by craigh » Wed Oct 12, 2011 18:41

Hi Mark

My repaired S1 has been working great since you did the power supply and other repairs but now the DVD drive has given up.

It opens and closes, then spins up and says no dvd in drive.

Is it an easy fix using standard drives or is it a custom unit ?

Craig
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Another DP-S1 saved

Post by Paul_oz53 » Sun Oct 23, 2011 00:04

Hi Mark,

Our DP-S1 320 GB (about 3 years old) started freezing up playing back high def videos. Even stuff it recorded itself. I tried resetting it to factory specs. Formatted the hard drive. Updated the firmware to 1.05.350. Nothing easy would fix it. Being desperate I raced out & bought a new DP-P2 from JB Hi Fi while I read up on the forum and chased parts. Old as I am I still know the business end of a soldering iron. So, using your extremely helpful guide I set about exploring the internals. Four obviously blown caps - all Sam Young brand. I replaced five for now because Jaycar didn't have the full set and were mainly selling Suntan branded low ESR caps. The existing Leton branded items all look fine though (for now at least).

It works beautifully now! Better than ever - thank you :D :D :D

Now for the surprise. The main caps in my unit are all sized differently. :o

The 1500uFs were 3300uFs (2200uF for now because that's all Jaycar had, but it works). The 1000uF was 2200uF. The 330uF is 470uF. The 470uFs were 1000uF. The Board layout was different too but still similar to the photo. I'll order a set of Panasonics from Farnell and swap the Jaycar stuff over when they arrive but I would suggest Sam Young brand should be deleted from your list of acceptable brands. Obviously my machine must have been a later production run so going up in capacitor size suggests Beyonwiz was aware that their power supplies were not up to scratch.

Thanks again, Paul :D

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Post by warkus » Sun Oct 23, 2011 09:56

Hi there,

Your model PSU is a totally different model PSU, I guess you did notice that from the pictures, but yet you still followed the guide? There was one batch of S1 machines that came out with P1 PSU's in them, that is what you have. They have not just "upgraded" the caps in this model PSU, it is a totally different design, and you should not refer to this repair guide in order to repair that model.

Please stop using your machine, as soon as possible and contact me for further information, as you definitely have issues if you have replaced the caps with 2200uf caps, and ANY caps purchased from Jaycar will cause you problems, not to mention the fact that you have under spec'd them.

Sorry but your machine should NOT be used as it is now, the repair is not meant for that model PSU, and if I had a way of updating my thread I would make that clearer but sadly I no longer have any edit functionality on it.

I urge you to turn it off and get it repaired properly before using it again, if that model had bulging caps, then there are other issues with your machine such as location, and ventilation, as that model PSU does not "usually" suffer from capacitor issues unless there is another reason causing it.


Mark
Last edited by warkus on Sun Oct 23, 2011 10:09, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by warkus » Sun Oct 23, 2011 10:01

BTY,

I stand by Sam Young caps, they are a very good quality capacitor, especially the series used in the Wiz. Most people like to replace their machines with Panasonic, but there is nothing wrong with Sam Young at all.

That is my point, if they have failed, you have bigger issues...


Mark
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Post by Paul_oz53 » Sun Oct 23, 2011 23:43

Thanks for the immediate reply Mark.

Most definitely the major caps failed with bulging tops or bottoms. Five Sam Young caps in all. I have a degreee in electronics but these days I mostly do hobby work around computers where I have seen the same failures in many motherboards.

I am acutely aware of the issues of heat stress and can assure you the DP-S1 was in a relatively cool position with good ventilation. Most likely the failure is due to voltage stress as we live in an area with high mains volts - 250V is normal here. We had an electrical storm recently and this failure became apparent soon after that event. However, the Beyonwiz was the only casualty it seems.

I accept your view of Sam Yong brand since I expect you see far more of these than I do. I will replace all the caps with recommended brands as soon as possibe. It was only the two 3300's that Jaycar didn't stock and the 4700's they had would not fit in the space. To get the machine going I paralled up 1000uF caps with the 2200's. I should have mentioned this perhaps.

Regarding your guide, the differences in the caps themselves and their locations is clearly important to others so it should only be followed by people with genuine understanding of what they are doing. It very accurately explains the physical disassembly and assembly instructions. Most importantly for me was that its very existence says in neon lights that if the DP-S1 starts to misbehave suspect the power supply. Even if DP-P1 power supplies are a better design the simple truth is that replacing the caps took a machine that would freeze up 4 or 5 times in an evening back to working brilliantly well.

With my background I would have opened up the unit anyway and would have spotted the caps instantly. But I may have attacked the disassembly randomly.

My sincere thanks for your guide and additional thoughts. :D

Paul

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DP-S1 Power Supply

Post by dranrabekim » Wed Nov 16, 2011 14:11

I thought I would report on my successful replacement of the capacitors in the DP-S1 power supply which I accomplished using Warcus's excellent guide and with his supply of most of the parts.

I was an electronic engineer many years ago and know my way around a soldering iron, so decided to fix the DP-S1 myself.

My DP-S1 is now about 6 years old and was suffering from a non existent display and if the DP-S1 was switched off, it lost the preset programs to record. Having read the forum I decided to replace all the identified caps, the crystal and the cap that keeps the time when power is off. On inspection when I pulled it apart I found a number (though not all) of the caps had bulged. I figured it would be better to have the DP-S1 apart once so replaced all the caps mentioned in this thread as they are only a few dollars and the good ones may well also bulge fairly soon after. I also replaced the crystal and the cap that keeps the internal clock alive once power is removed (4700u I think) with a 1F supercap.

That all happened back in January 2011 and the S1 has been operating continuously with no issue whatsoever ever since.

I hope this will encourage others to have a go and fix their own DP-S1's with the expert help available on this forum. Many thanks to all contributors to this thread and especially to Warkus for his detailed information and support in fixing this common problem.
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Paul55
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Post by Paul55 » Wed Nov 16, 2011 18:01

warkus wrote: I stand by Sam Young caps, they are a very good quality capacitor, especially the series used in the Wiz. Most people like to replace their machines with Panasonic, but there is nothing wrong with Sam Young at all.
Mark
Mark,
I replaced the caps in my 5 y.o. Toppy 5000 - they were Sam Youngs.
The Toppy had been our main PVR for 4 years and was left on 24/7 for that time. It was VERY well ventilated and had an 8cm extractor fan on top running 8 hours per day.
I'd had a couple of small glitches and decided to investigate. The voltages were only marginally off ''ideal'' so I did a preemptive cap change while I had the machine apart - fairly high spec Panasonics.
I was surprised how close the original caps were after so much use and time.
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Post by rsquires » Tue Jan 10, 2012 18:26

Wonder if Warkus is away. I have tried to PM him but no reply yet. Hoping to get my Beyonwiz back up and running if possible

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Post by JamesP » Thu Feb 02, 2012 01:52

Hi All,

Is anyone currently doing PSU repairs in the Sydney area?

My DP-S1 has gone poof again. I count at least 8 caps with molten tofu emissions. :)

Cheers,

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warkus
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Post by warkus » Thu Feb 02, 2012 06:55

Hi there,

I wonder if you are possibly mistaking the silicone rubber on the board (which is usually drissled over parts of it) as blown caps. It would be unusual for 8 of them to have blown like that.

You refer to it as poof again??? was it repaired already????


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Post by JamesP » Thu Feb 02, 2012 14:06

It had been repaired by a forum member a while back.

They didn't add any goop to the caps as it was a kitchen bench fix.

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warkus
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Post by warkus » Thu Feb 02, 2012 14:15

Oh, ok....

That does not sound good. Suddenly flashes of Suntan caps enter my mind....

Please send me a photo of your PSU, I have send you a PM. Am happy to assist you to resurect your machine, and it wont be a kitchen bench repair either.

Mark
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Post by JamesP » Thu Feb 02, 2012 15:57

PM sent and thanks for the offer.

If anyone else is interested, here is a picture of the PSU.

Image

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Post by tonymy01 » Thu Feb 02, 2012 16:01

No bulging caps there. Was that one i fixed (given i do it on the kitchen bench lol, and they appear to be the panasonics).
Tony

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Post by warkus » Thu Feb 02, 2012 16:05

That looks like a pretty good repair to me, and they are Pana's too, so nothing wrong with the quality.

Thats a relief at least.
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Post by JamesP » Thu Feb 02, 2012 17:54

Well that is good news. Bad news is it's not the PSU. :)

tonymy01 - I think you did do it. If you got a bottle of Makers Mark for it then it was you.

I must have old mans memory (tm) as I don't recall the goo being put in.

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Post by prl » Thu Feb 02, 2012 18:03

JamesP wrote:...
I must have old mans memory (tm) as I don't recall the goo being put in.
The white goop may be factory original. You can see some in this older photo of a DP-S1 PSU. At the bottom right of the larger transformer, and (I think) around the red-brown (polyester?) capacitor up at the top left of the PSU, just to the right of where the mains lead comes in.

Photos from Dave, IIRC.
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Post by JamesP » Thu Feb 02, 2012 18:10

Update: Just took the HD out and tried it in an external enclosure on the PC.

$h?t* be broke Captain! Damn thing won't even spin up. It just lies there making groaning and whirring noises.

I'm deeming this to be definitive symptoms of a dead disc.

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Post by prl » Thu Feb 02, 2012 18:13

You won't be able to access even a working Beyonwiz internal HDD from a Windows PC. Linux and OS X will be able to read from and write to it.

But the non-spinning-up bit doesn't sound good.
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Post by tonymy01 » Thu Feb 02, 2012 19:03

JamesP wrote: tonymy01 - I think you did do it. If you got a bottle of Makers Mark for it then it was you.
Yep, that would be me. The goop is simply a silicon adhesive like substance to stop component vibration/movement & insulation to stop potentially contacting a nearby component, which in the high voltage side of the switch mode power supply (the parts to the right of the 2 yellow banded transformers) could have fatal results (to the PSU, or the house fuse, or the whole house if it catches fire!!).

Don't completely rule out the PSU though, they have been known to blow a diode I believe. Yep, found the post: UF5042 D11 http://www.beyonwiz.com.au/phpbb2/viewt ... iode#93255 (also D12 and D13 mentioned in another thread, but that is a DP-P2).

But your HDD doesn't sound too crash hot if it is not spinning and making horrible noises.

edit: why is my BB quoting not working any more?? I don't have BBCode disabled??
Last edited by tonymy01 on Thu Feb 02, 2012 20:42, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by sub3R » Thu Feb 02, 2012 19:04

prl wrote:The white goop may be factory original.
...
Looks like it. The photos of my S1 power supplies shows silicon on the exact same components.
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Post by warkus » Thu Feb 02, 2012 19:18

The Silicone is normal, and is found on all models of wiz PSU, the S1 having the most though. Nothing to worry about and definitely not a cause of your problems.

The S1 machines (unlike the newer models) will fire up with no HDD in them and work as a non recording STB. Make sure the DVD is not connected either and try to power your machine up, it should power up fine, assuming the small red/black loop cable that normally connects just in front of your HDD power cable is still connected and the other end plugged into the mainboard. If you have removed that small double adaptor / addon cable, you will get an error 0000 on the machine so plug it back in first.

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