What is inside a H1? Can a hard drive be installed?
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What is inside a H1? Can a hard drive be installed?
Since the H1 is the same size as a P1 - I was wondering if anyone has had a look inside to see if there are any connectors left over? Would it be possible to install a hard drive internally?
Thanks for any info you may have...
Thanks for any info you may have...
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- Wizard God
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All three DP-x1 models have the same motherboard, and it would probably be possible to add the ATA connector for the HDD. However, the H1 firmware would probably ignore that internal HDD, and if you managed to hack the H1 firmware to allow it to load (say) the P1 firmware, then that firmware would probably throw a fit because there was only one tuner.
I'd be surprised if it could be made to work even passably well.
I use a WD MyBook on my H1, mainly because the drive shuts itself down when power on the USB connector goes away.
I'd be surprised if it could be made to work even passably well.
I use a WD MyBook on my H1, mainly because the drive shuts itself down when power on the USB connector goes away.
Peter
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Took the cover off mine, pretty bare in there. No IDE connector or power for a HDD. There is this thing on the board with 4 pins though, no idea what that does, it looks like it may also be unused on the S1, hard to tell in the S1 photos. Could be interface with the board at the factory maybe? I'll be glad take some photos if people want me to.
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I think it may be the serial I/O connector.Paranoid666au wrote:Took the cover off mine, pretty bare in there. No IDE connector or power for a HDD. There is this thing on the board with 4 pins though, no idea what that does, it looks like it may also be unused on the S1, hard to tell in the S1 photos. Could be interface with the board at the factory maybe? I'll be glad take some photos if people want me to.
Peter
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Well I took some photos and here they are. You could solder all the connectors on there for a hard drive but whether the power board would take the load and getting the firmware to work would be a different story.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0082.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0083.jpg
Vacant WiFi connection http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0084.jpg
Vacant IDE connector http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0085.jpg
Vacant power for hard drive http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0087.jpg
Power board http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0088.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0089.jpg
Vacant second tuner http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0092.jpg
Vacant memory card / USB front ports http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0094.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0082.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0083.jpg
Vacant WiFi connection http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0084.jpg
Vacant IDE connector http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0085.jpg
Vacant power for hard drive http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0087.jpg
Power board http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0088.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0089.jpg
Vacant second tuner http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0092.jpg
Vacant memory card / USB front ports http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f318/ ... C_0094.jpg
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I couldn't find the USB connector just that four pin interface thingy. Where abouts on the board do you think it would it be? I was investigating the 2.5" potential and you could fit at least three of them in there. But could you connect three to the H1? I think only one could be used as the recording drive right?
Oh an I forgot to mention that there is actually a front door on the H1, if look on the bottom you can see the hinge. There plastic on front is all one piece so you can't open the door. I think all you would need to do is just put a cut in it. But getting it off probably wont be easy. All the holes are there for USB and the card reader, you could probably shoe horn a USB card reader in there somehow.
Oh an I forgot to mention that there is actually a front door on the H1, if look on the bottom you can see the hinge. There plastic on front is all one piece so you can't open the door. I think all you would need to do is just put a cut in it. But getting it off probably wont be easy. All the holes are there for USB and the card reader, you could probably shoe horn a USB card reader in there somehow.
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Just get a P1. Get the card reader and second tuner thrown in as well!
For peteru's idea about putting in a laptop drive and USB converter: the whole thing would have to run off the available 500mA from the USB connector you use.
For peteru's idea about putting in a laptop drive and USB converter: the whole thing would have to run off the available 500mA from the USB connector you use.
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Yea I don't think I'll do anything with my H1. But if you could be bothered and had the skills it would be cheaper than getting a P1.
I might consider getting a P1 in future or maybe a P2 to avoid the remote issues with both devices in the same room.
I might consider getting a P1 in future or maybe a P2 to avoid the remote issues with both devices in the same room.
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The unused card connector for the front panel card reader has the USB data lines as well as power for two USB ports, so a variant of the ubiquitous USB Y cable to get sufficient power could be easily put together.prl wrote:For peteru's idea about putting in a laptop drive and USB converter: the whole thing would have to run off the available 500mA from the USB connector you use.
However, I agree with you - just get a P1 and be done with it.
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I thought the DP-P2 had a different codeset from the DP-x1 models, so a P2 and an x1 could happily share the same room without code conflicts. The P2 remote can be switched between the two codesets with a press-and-hold of two buttons.peteru wrote:Bad news, I am afraid.Paranoid666au wrote:I might consider getting a P1 in future or maybe a P2 to avoid the remote issues with both devices in the same room.
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It was posted in the DTV Forum (and following posts). The information about how to switch BW modes in the DP-P2 remote is in its manual (download page on the BW corporate web site).peteru wrote:Really? I don't recall seeing that information anywhere. If that is the case, it should be possible to retrofit same functionality into existing P1s.
The P2 doesn't have any extra ability for this, it just has a (presumably) single, but different, code set built in. For the P1, there's still the problem of the apparent inability to field-modify the POWER and 1+2+3+4+POWER codes in the front panel.
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I think that most of the code set is actually interpreted in the main firmware, so even if this worked, I think all you'd have would be a P1 that could be turned on (and possibly off) with the P2 remote, but would need the P1 remote for all its other functions. Probably not the result you'd wantParanoid666au wrote:It would be good if you get a another front board of BW. It shouldn't be too difficult to replace it.
Anyone want to put a P2 board into x1 Wiz and prove my theory.
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