Beyonwiz RHS-700 MODEL PSU Repair (T3) - UPDATE 18-12-2016

[warkus]

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THIS IS A GUIDE ON REPAIRING YOUR BEYONWIZ T3 RHS-700 MODEL POWER SUPPLY UNIT

WARNING – IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER MODEL – DO NOT FOLLOW THIS GUIDE - EMAIL ME FOR FURTHER ASSISTANCE

Last updated 18/12/2016

THANKS to ALL OF THE MODERATORS AND FORUM REGULARS who have helped to keep this forum going!!! You know who you are!
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** BRAND WARNING – DON’T USE SUNTAN CAPACITORS TO COMPLETE THIS REPAIR (FOUND AT JAYCAR ELECTRONICS) **

...Or any other cheap brand for that matter. Please ensure that you follow this guide carefully, it tells you which brands to use and even lists part numbers.

Your local electronics enthusiast shops are not always a good place to source "good quality" electronic components. Try a more professional outlet such as Element 14 (Farnell) or RS Components or even XON Electronics. All can be ordered online and delivered to your door - it is worth the few extra days in delivery! I can also supply you the exact parts you need as I stock them so PM me if needed.

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** REPAIR THREAD - AMMENDMENT NOTE **

The works contained in this guide are based purely on my own knowledge of repairing this model of power supply combined with 20 years’ experience in the industry. As the age of these units increases, and therefore the amount of running time each machine has received increases, new components may be discovered as faulty. When this occurs, I will update the guide to detail any new possible issues and resolutions that Beyonwiz owners may need to know about.

This repair guide is for the T3 Beyonwiz PSU unit. It will require AT LEAST 1 HOUR of your time to complete it properly.

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Why would you want to attempt to do this repair? (Besides the fact that you love your Beyonwiz)…

Well, if your Beyonwiz T3 is no longer booting and is just stuck on "Beyonwiz-T3" when you power up, then the likely reason is the PSU failing and this repair will fix it.

THIS MODEL PSU IS NOT FOUND IN OTHER BEYONWIZ MODELS - ONLY T3. I HAVE NAMED THE REPAIR THREAD BY THE PSU MODEL NUMBER

When I have more time I will do a more comprehensive guide but for now as it is nearly Christmas and time is in short supply, this will do so that at least people have the right basic info.

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DISCLAIMER & GENERAL WARNING - READ BEFORE YOU BEGIN

I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT YOU MAY DO TO YOUR OWN PSU OR PVR. THIS REPAIR IS PROVIDED FOR GUIDANCE ONLY AND IS INTENDED FOR EXPERIENCED USERS WITH ELECTRONICS KNOWLEDGE.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR A 240v PSU UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!

IF YOU ARE ATTEMPTING SOMETHING LIKE THIS FOR THE FIRST TIME – THINK TWICE AND THEN THINK AGAIN!

THIS PSU WILL STILL CONTAIN VERY HIGH VOLTAGE EVEN WHEN DISCONNECTED.

THE HIGH VOLTAGE SIDE OF THE PSU RUNS AT AROUND 350v – MUCH HIGHER THAN 240v ONCE CONVERTED TO DC VOLTAGE – STAY AWARE AT ALL TIMES.

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GENERAL ASSUMPTIONS, INFORMATION AND TOOLS REQUIRED FOR THE JOB

To begin, I have made some basic assumptions, if you are contemplating this repair, then…

Firstly, I imaging you must own the basic equipment or can at least get it…
Secondly, you know something about electronics and are aware of what a capacitor or diode is…
Lastly, you are familiar with removing and installing electronic components…

If you fail on any of these points you should turn back now. Feel free to contact me and I can arrange to assist you with the repairs.

Equipment you will need for the repair...

A 25w Soldering Iron or Temperature Controlled Iron (Set to a temperature of no more than 400°)
Good Quality Solder & De-Soldering Braid or Solder Removal Tool
Discharge Tool
Wire Cutters & A Philips Screw Driver

Do not use a soldering iron that is TOO HOT as you can severely damage the PCB and/or other components. Equally, do not use anything less than 25w (i.e. 15w) as the negative tracks that you will be soldering are wide, and cover a considerable part of the PCB in the area you are working on. They will take a bit of heat to melt and replace the solder in a clean and appropriate way. Considerable frustration will occur if you use a soldering iron that is TOO LOW in temperature.

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WHAT YOU NEED TO REPLACE

At a minimum if repairing your T3 power supply, replace the following and preferably the optional extras below too.

Ensure that your PSU is discharged properly first before performing the repair.

Replace the following as a MINIMUM

C34 - existing 1000uf 10v - replacement 1000uf 25v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1E102L
C37 - existing 1000uf 25v - replacement 1000uf 25v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1E102L
C31 - existing 2200uf 10v - replacement 2200uf 10v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1A222L
C38 - existing 100uf 25v - replacement 100uf 50v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1H101
C41 - existing 100uf 35v - replacement 100uf 50v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1H101

C41 and C38 are glued to the heat sink of an IC, cut the glue off, so they are no longer joined, remove the old caps, and rework the IC so it is forward of the caps location, don't just bend it or you risk lifting the PCB tracks, rework the solder to bent it forward. Reinstall the new caps tall above the 2 green chokes directly in front of it.

Desirable to replace as well are...

C42 - existing 100uf 50v - replacement 100uf 50v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1H101
C44 - existing 100uf 50v - replacement 100uf 50v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1H101
C40 - existing 680uf 35v - replacement 680uf 35v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1V681L
C72 - existing 1000uf 10v - replacement 1000uf 25v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1E102L
C105 - existing 1000uf 10v - replacement 1000uf 25v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1E102L

That should fix it properly and ensure a lot more time is had with your wiz.

Best place to purchase is RS Components or Element14 and definitely NOT JayCar Electronics.

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POWER SUPPLY PICTURES OF THE UNIT AFTER MINIMUM REPAIR

These pictures show what it should look like after repair once the HEASTSINK is separated from the capacitors correctly.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

Picture 4

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That’s it for now as I simply have no time to do the guide completely as I usually would but over the xmas break I will definitely redo it properly.

For now, at least the basic info is there and people should be able to get the job done.

As usual if not confident in doing this yourself there are several options available to you...

Contact Beyonwiz Support - they can organise repairs for you and are currently offering very cheap "out of warranty" repairs.
Contact me through the forum - I can also organise repairs for you or provide you an exchange PSU.

Thanks for reading.

Mark

[skrooge]

Hi,

Firstly thanks for posting this information.
My T3 died a couple of weeks ago, I have since replaced all the PSU capacitors suggested in this post. But it gets stuck on "Booting" after displaying the firmware version etc.

Just wondering what could be the next part(s) to look at?

Thanks.

[MrQuade]

Regulators on the motherboard is the one that gets mentioned frequently.

[skrooge]

Its Alive!

Having replaced all the Caps and it now getting stuck on "Booting...", I thought i would try re-flashing the firmware.
To my joy it came back to life. BIG thanks to warkus for this post!

[Wozz]

Great work OP.
Didn't suspect the PSU when I saw that it was powering on partially to Beyonwiz screen then no further (no output via HDMI).
Opened it up and found a few badly leaking caps.

Replaced and working perfect now!

FYI for all those who are afraid to do this repair - even if you are out of warranty, do not pay beyonwiz to repair your device. Use Australian Consumer Law to get it done free.. More info on some of the other threads (use search)

[NedIS]

by Wozz

FYI for all those who are afraid to do this repair - even if you are out of warranty, do not pay beyonwiz to repair your device. Use Australian Consumer Law to get it done free.. More info on some of the other threads (use search)

Thanks for the advice!

I got my T3 in Jun2014 still going at the moment (touch wood)!
Although I do have mine set to shutdown every night at 11:00pm and restart at 5:50pm, I have done this for the last 18 months!
Also have nothing attached to USB drives!
I suppose it just a matter of time?

[IanB]

What's the crap between the heatsink and the 2 caps top left corner of the photo, just below the [yellow, black, black, red] connector, looks a bit like a piece of foil???

Has one of the caps expelled it's contents?

It should not be there, that heatsink should be unobstructed on all 4 sides.

Maybe post a super-macro very sharp focused photo of just the top left corner.

[prl]

The brown staining on the tops of those two capacitors also doesn't look good.

[peteru]

T3 PSUs have a blob of hotsnot gluing the heatsink and caps together. It will discolour over time. Warkus detailed how to rectify that.

[prl]

T3 PSUs have a blob of hotsnot gluing the heatsink and caps together. It will discolour over time. Warkus detailed how to rectify that.

Ah. OK. I looked for anything similar on the other caps, but if it's normal for those ones, that's OK, then.

[lmr052]

A huge thank you to Warkus for this. As always your knowledge is very much appreciated. I have used your write-ups to successfully repair several DP type power supplies and now I have done my T3 using this one.

By way of background, my T3 (with the latest update of firmware) was starting to display reception problems with Tuner A pixellating badly to the point I felt that it was faulty. Its output was unusable when sent off to the Sony TV. I disabled Tuner A and added my Beyonwiz supplied USB tuner and found it was performing better than my remaining Tuners (B and C). Not long after, my remaining fixed Tuners also started behaving erratically.

After stumbling onto this thread, I thought perhaps the flakiness of the inbuilt tuners was a symptom of a failing power supply - after all my T3 was getting to the age where the power supply caps may be causing problems. I ordered my 10 caps as per the Warkus write-up from Wagner Electronics in Ashfield, Sydney just before 1600 on Easter Thursday and they arrived before 1000 on the following Tuesday (I am in Sydney too but the service was impressive considering Easter was in the middle).

At power-up I was greeted with no smoke and a perfectly functioning T3 with now all inbuilt tuners performing as well as the USB! So in my case, it appears that the onset of poor reception was a an indicator of a failing power supply creating interference in the built in tuners, but not the USB tuner - perhaps the USB power is better regulated.

[peteru]

No. The USB tuner is powered only by the 5V USB rail. The built in tuners are powered by a few rails from the SMPS. Chances are that in your case, one of the other rails was out of spec.

[geeps]

Thank you for this, warkus.

Yep, our T3 suffered the dread "stuck on Beyonwiz-T3" syndrome. Being an interventionist sort of person, and having recently repaired a Samsung TV with the same crappy capacitor problem, figured I'd go the self repair route rather than wait.

RS Components were incredible - ordered those components you listed at 4pm and the very next day they are in our mailbox. That's great service.

For anyone attempting this repair...
1. If you are getting along life's path probably the biggest problem is eye-sight. I have an LED magnifying lamp on a stand which is essential for this type of detailed work.
2. Removing the components on the board is more fiddly than installing the replacements. Unfortunately it is all too easy to remove the PCB pad where the component is attached. (Or I'm ham fisted.) So I folded the metal leg rather than snip it and carefully joined it to a component on the same PCB track. To be sure, to be sure. (If doing that, be absolutely certain that it is on the same track! And that any excess length is trimmed to prevent contact with anything else.) There is one place where that won't really work - for one of the capacitors gunked to the heat sink the nearest component on the same track is a postcode away. So take extra care removing it.
3. Take care to remove any metal clippings / solder balls from the finished job before re-installing the PSU.

So far I've only replaced those components listed in the minimum. Things to do today and I wanted to see if the T3 would resume normal service. Pleased to say that it did.

Must say I'm a bit over Korean electronics.

Thanks again.

[jimmers]

Thanks for this, warkus.
I should have guessed things were too good to last as my T3 had worked without crashing for 5 weeks (after crashing 50 times in the previous 5 months. And lo, the Beyonwiz T3 message was there and no go. Thanks to your post I've ordered some good Pana caps from Element 14 and look forward to a successful resuscitation.
To tide me over, as there are no T4 barebones available, I bought a Fetch Mighty 4.
What a great picture, was like watching a Blu-ray, I didn't realise how poor the T3 picture was - I knew it was nowhere near Blu-ray but I thought that was due to the free to air TV quality - wrong!
Anyhow I don't have to worry about badly implemented slomo as Mighty doesn't have any
Very simple compared to T3, but it does what's intended cleanly with no blind alleys, shows how a well designed and implemented firmware can work.
Fingers crossed for the psu fix, and thanks again for the info.

[bpratt]

Thanks for the details.

Ordered the caps from Element 14 sunday night, so order filled yesterday, and delivered today, swapped them over today, and my T3 is working fine again now.

There's a picture of the blown cap in one of these threads, and that's exactly the same way mine looked here too.

Cost just under $25 including Toll delivery.

[billcrick]

I have also had similar issues with the PSU, but it presented different symptoms since it was only the 12V rail that supplies the hard drive that failed.

The first indication of impending doom, was an irregular beat coming through the speakers. Everything seemed to work ok, just the annoying sound. When I started investigating I first replaced the hard drive and it wouldn't start up at all. I then disconnected the hard drive and managed to get a picture. I also tried a laptop drive which only requires 5V and everything seemed to work fine.

I tested the 12V supply and it was fine with no hard drive but drops to 0 when connected.

I also have had the PSU 'repaired' by Beyonwiz 15 months ago but obviously some other parts have failed. I will have a go at replacing all of the caps and let you know how I go.

Hopefully this post will help anyone else who has similar symptoms.

Update:
After replacing all of the recommended caps and re-soldering most of the PSU components, the Beyonwiz fired up straight away. I did find that one of the caps had bulged out of its case, but thought it was better to replace the lot. Happy days. By the way, excellent service from Element 14. The caps were delivered within 2 days. Many thanks to warkus for posting these easy to follow instructions.

[Kabe]

Beyonwiz T3 has finely come down with the "Beyonwiz T3" disease after nearly 4 years. I have read Warkus' comments and if I was a few decades younger would have giving it a go but nowadays with eye and fat fingers problems, its beyond me.

I have seen reference to a place at Fairfield called Nasa Repairs. Has anybody used these services for repairs and can they give some sort of a heads up as to success rate.

Many thanks in advance.

[MrQuade]

I have seen reference to a place at Fairfield called Nasa Repairs. Has anybody used these services for repairs and can they give some sort of a heads up as to success rate.

If you have your unit repaired by Beyonwiz, then NASA are the repairer that Beyonwiz typically use for that service.

[Paul_oz53]

Beyonwiz T3 has finely come down with the "Beyonwiz T3" disease after nearly 4 years. I have read Warkus' comments and if I was a few decades younger would have giving it a go but nowadays with eye and fat fingers problems, its beyond me.

I have seen reference to a place at Fairfield called Nasa Repairs. Has anybody used these services for repairs and can they give some sort of a heads up as to success rate.

Many thanks in advance.

Warkus completely rebuilds the PSU. Warkus offers an exchange service which is cheap, and efficient and not very taxing as a DYI project. Fiddliest bit was keeping track of the screws.

NASA can do repairs but is noted for a more minimalist approach to fixing the problem. NASA repaired my T3 PSU but it was with them for weeks and is now showing signs of needing a full rebuild.

I used Warkus for three other older units, all of which are still working after three or more years.

[Kabe]

Thanks McQuade and Paul for your inputs. Sorry for the slow replies, just been talking to my son who dabbles into printed circuit board modifications about him undertaking the repairs. He feels that from the descriptions posted in the forum that it looks a straight forward job and asked me to source out the parts listed by Warkus from Element 14.

Thanks again.

[greycat]

A VERY BIG THANKS TO WARKUS for the excellent T3 power supply (model RHS-700) repair guide.

My T3 was repaired a couple of years ago by Beyonwiz, and failed in the same way (stuck on displaying Beyonwiz-T3) almost 2 years to the day after the first repair. This time Beyonwiz suggested I junk it and get $50 off a new U4, or get it repaired by NAS Electronics. However, as I'm reluctant to send repairable items to landfill, particularly ones that I like (PSU problems aside), and don't want the hassle of sending it off every 2 years, and had previously come across Warkus's guide I decided to try the repair myself. Fortunately I had a T4 to be going on with while I played around.

When I opened the case everything looked OK. If I had not had the guide I would not have known anything was amiss. On close inspection I could see the C34 capacitor had a slightly domed top compared to the flat tops on the other capacitors. Once I had desoldered and removed it, it was apparent the black rubber bung at the bottom had been partially forced out of the case.

The last time I used a soldering iron was when Dick Smith had not long opened his shop at Gore Hill. My eyesight was a lot better then. I was surprised to find I had squirreled away both a 25W soldering iron and a solder sucker probably purchased from said Dick.

I understand that professional repairers recommend replacing all the capacitors at once so you don't have to keep sending the unit back and forth. As a backyard repairer who is not a dab hand at soldering I thought I would proceed in small steps and not overreach myself.

While I purchased the full set of capacitors listed in the guide, plus some spare C34 replacements, from RS Electronics, so far I have only replaced the C34 capacitor. I replaced it with a Panasonic EEUFR1E102L 1000uF 25V as listed in Warkus's guide. That got the T3 back up and running for the present.

If C34 goes again I'll replace it; if one of the others caps go I'll attempt to replace them all at that stage. C34 may need replacing more often as it is located close to a heatsink, so may get hotter and dry out more quickly than the other caps. As the replacement cap is larger than the one it replaced, and reputed to be of better quality, it will hopefully last longer than the old one and buy some extra time.

As these capacitors come with fairly long leads, I was also wondering if raising C34 off the PCB next time I need to replace it might keep it cooler, or whether this would just make it easier for it to spill its guts if it does heat up?

[Paul_oz53]

Hi greycat,

C34 is exactly what NAS replaced in mine and after a year, it started to act up again. So, it is better to replace all the substandard main capacitors as a minimum. I don't expect C34 to be the first to go through, as it's a quality brand. More likely is one of the other high value caps.

I used to do my own work but lìke you, my health limits what I choose to do myself now.

For future reference, if you only replace parts as they fail the likelihood of more serious failure increases. Warkus has eons of experience behind this repair guide and his recommended repair results in years of trouble free service.

The length of the capacitor leads is unlikely to be a problem and improving the separation from the heat sink is desirable within limits. Especially make sure that the leads cannot short out and the capacitor cannot flop around.

Cheers,

[Draadnor]

Capacitors are also temperature rated so one rated for 105 C will last longer than one rated at 80 C in a hot environment. The one that Warkus recommended is rated at 105 C.

The other good thing about the one Warkus recommends is that it has a low Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR). This means that it won't get as hot running while doing its job (as opposed to getting heated up by external factors). Generally speaking Japanese made is better.

I agree with Paul_oz53 in that you should change ALL capacitors recommended as others are almost certainly working below specs.

Electrolytic capacitors are the main cause of failure in modern electronics and while they can often be visually spotted due to a slightly domed top or the bottom pushed out the best method is using an ESR meter. Electronics Australia produced a kit version which has helped me repair a few household items over the years but sadly it is no longer available.

[greycat]

Hi Paul_oz53 & Draadnor

Thanks muchly for the useful information on the leads, temp rating and ESR.

(NB I wasn't disagreeing with Warkus that all the caps should be replaced, just promoting my own laziness and lack of confidence in my soldering ability after not having tried it for so long. Having done this repair I will replace them all next time, or alternatively I may just send the PSU off to Warkus for a complete rebuild if that option is still available. )

[Nixay]

Another satisfied customer here. My T3's power supply was replaced by Beyonwiz 2 years ago nearly to the day when my hard drive simply "disappeared" from the menu. Moved the hard drive to my computer and it appeared to be fine and I was able to copy all my recordings. It had been acting a little strangely from time to time, recording tiny chunks of a program before quitting and then starting a new recording.

Inspected things more closely and the PSU had bulging caps with a couple having yellow stuff coming out the top. Followed this guide for repair and all is now well again

[Jez]

Thanks for the guide. I’m having a go at doing it myself but need to check some details.

I have a RHS-700 psu in my T3 that needs caps replaced but my C31 and C34 caps are different to what’s listed in the guide above.

C31 is 2200uF 16v not 10v and C34 is 1500uF 16v not 10v. The others appear to be the same.

Not sure why mine’s different but do I need 16v or higher caps to replace the existing two above?

Thanks,
Jeremy

[peteru]

Higher voltage rating is better and always safe - as long as they are high quality capacitors. If you found 16V parts in there (and they weren't previously replaced), then replace them with 16V parts. Make sure you are buying low ESR capacitors with high ripple rating.

[IanB]

Thanks for the guide. I’m having a go at doing it myself but need to check some details.

I have a RHS-700 psu in my T3 that needs caps replaced but my C31 and C34 caps are different to what’s listed in the guide above.

C31 is 2200uF 16v not 10v and C34 is 1500uF 16v not 10v. The others appear to be the same.

Not sure why mine’s different but do I need 16v or higher caps to replace the existing two above?

Yes, there is some variation, and previous repairs may have substituted some values.

Warkus has considerable experience and what he generally specifies is the minimum you should use and the part nos are the right diameter to fit correctly.

C31 - existing 2200uf 10v - replacement 2200uf 10v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1A222L
..
C34 - existing 1000uf 10v - replacement 1000uf 25v - Panasonic FR Series EEUFR1E102L

When I did mine the C31 2200uf 10V were on back order so I bought 16V. Same diameter but slightly taller.

For the C34 Warkus advocates 25V. As for 1000uF or 1500uF it probably doesn't matter as long as the diameter is compatible.

Do be very careful with C41 and C38 which can be glued to the heat sink of a regulator IC, I desoldered all 3 parts and removed as a single composite unit. Much easier to separate out on the bench, and that IC should have it's legs reformed to improved component separation anyway.

[Jez]

Thanks guys. Will replace with same or higher voltage.

[Jez]

All fixed! Thanks Warkus, Peter, Ian and all for the advice.

My initial problem was the hard drive no longer being recognised, but the tuners were all working fine so I replaced all caps listed above except C34 and C37 (awaiting replies above). This resulted in the constant "Beyonwiz T3" message and no tuners, but I could hear the hard drive spinning again.

I replaced C34 and C37 once I received the new caps today and it's all good again.

[Chalnoth]

Anyone know if Warkus still offers a repair service. Don't like my chances of repairing this myself.

[Gully]

Anyone know if Warkus still offers a repair service. Don't like my chances of repairing this myself.

Definitely, use his work contact posted in the forum as the best option.

[IanSav]

Hi,

Mark (Warkus) has recently been away. He is back on deck now.

Regards,
Ian.

[Stubn]

My 2014 T3 died this week.
@Warkus , Thank you this guide. I replaced all caps, however C37 was my expanded and leaking cap.

All working again

[rrroonn]

Thanks for the effort of documenting this.

C34 was my culprit. Dirty bottom and domed head.

Ron