Beyonwiz AD055H018 MODEL PSU Repair - UPDATE 25-09-2012

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 17:43

prl wrote:
madmax wrote:Mark,

Since you are doing this mostly out of 'love', just do what *you* think is best, not what some other mug thinks.
+1

Perhaps, Warkus, you should suggest to your correspondent that (s)he should seek elsewhere for better prices and a marketing department

That should be higher prices not better ones given the suggestions made.

prl · Post by **prl** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 17:46

Gully wrote:
prl wrote:
madmax wrote:Mark,

Since you are doing this mostly out of 'love', just do what *you* think is best, not what some other mug thinks.
+1

Perhaps, Warkus, you should suggest to your correspondent that (s)he should seek elsewhere for better prices and a marketing department
That should be higher prices not better ones given the suggestions made.

No, I said what I meant. My implication was that better prices would be hard to find.

dwd1249 · Post by **dwd1249** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 18:22

Perhaps the other person would like to go into repairing the BW and feels he can't compete
with your rates.
I for one really appreciated the advice you gave me and so far so good I haven't had any more problems with the S1.
I do feel I owe you a few beers if our paths ever cross.

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 22:47

prl wrote:
Gully wrote:
prl wrote:
madmax wrote:Mark,

Since you are doing this mostly out of 'love', just do what *you* think is best, not what some other mug thinks.
+1

Perhaps, Warkus, you should suggest to your correspondent that (s)he should seek elsewhere for better prices and a marketing department
That should be higher prices not better ones given the suggestions made.
No, I said what I meant. My implication was that better prices would be hard to find.

Apologies - I misunderstood.

prl · Post by **prl** » Sat Apr 24, 2010 07:25

Gully wrote:
prl wrote:
Gully wrote:
prl wrote:
madmax wrote:Mark,

Since you are doing this mostly out of 'love', just do what *you* think is best, not what some other mug thinks.
+1

Perhaps, Warkus, you should suggest to your correspondent that (s)he should seek elsewhere for better prices and a marketing department
That should be higher prices not better ones given the suggestions made.
No, I said what I meant. My implication was that better prices would be hard to find.
Apologies - I misunderstood.

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Sat Apr 24, 2010 14:54

Thanks again to all who responded...

As a matter of clarification, I would now just like to clear up the fact that...

I DO NOT charge $150 + postage and parts or whatever it may have been to repair an S1 PSU.

I clarify this as I have had now 2 people say to me that they thought from reading this thread that I charge $150...

Nope, definitely not...much less...

But by all means, if you are rich and feel that you "want" to part with $150 for the repair, I will respectfully accept your wishes..

The real cost for Wiz PSU repairs varies between $20 - $50 give or take a bit depending on whats wrong and how long it takes to do.

Mark

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Sat May 08, 2010 17:24

Changes made today are very minor for those that dont necessarily want to re-read it...

Version 1.5 - (08/05/2010)
Added additional symptoms to the list (As the units are getting older, there are now a few more obvious symptoms that are caused by the PSU failing)

Mark

chinga69 · Post by **chinga69** » Tue May 11, 2010 04:45

hi i went to jaycar and bought the capacitors but they only had the 16v 1000
they did not have the 16v 1500

which they said would do the job ok

all working again for now

should i try and find the 16v x 1500 caps any way

thanks very much for the pics and which caps should be replaced

thank you brad

brianh · Post by **brianh** » Tue May 11, 2010 06:57

Please don't tell me they were "Suntan" brand capacitors...........? If they were, you'll be doing the job again in the next month or two...

.....and just a bit OT, @ Gully -

AAAAAAAARRRRRRGGGHHHHHH!! Your face has become frozen!! (At least it didn't change when I looked away......)

grampus · Post by **grampus** » Tue May 11, 2010 08:22

brianh wrote: and about a dozen remote controls.....

Brian, surely the time has come to go the Harmony route.
That'll keep you off the streets for a day or 2.

tonymy01 · Post by **tonymy01** » Tue May 11, 2010 09:01

chinga69 wrote:hi i went to jaycar and bought the capacitors but they only had the 16v 1000
they did not have the 16v 1500

which they said would do the job ok

Never never never put a cap in that has *less* spec than the original, you should have put 2200 in (common cap values for the cheaper caps are 1000,2200,4700,6800,etc).
If it wasn't a low ESR cap (given you were served by a work experience kid that didn't have a clue), then expect it to fry even sooner.
Regards

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Tue May 11, 2010 11:43

I can't believe that a so called Electronics Enthusiast in that shop could actually tell you such rubbish!

1000uf will do hey...NOT!

My guess is that if they are Suntan, and they are 1000uf caps, then you have about 2 weeks tops!

Sorry, but you were very badly mislead.

I think the time has come to ammend the thread a little....

Mark

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Tue May 11, 2010 12:21

Done,

Warning now put at the top/beginning of the thread.

BTY, chinga69, your welcome, and I am really sorry you were badly misinformed.

You will need to redo the repair if you have any chance of your unit lasting for an extended period of time, and I would do it much sooner rather than later to avoid any bigger issues.

Sorry.

Mark

alland57 · Post by **alland57** » Tue May 11, 2010 14:21

Hi

This is a great thread. I have a DP-S1 and had for around the infamous 2 year mark. Have been needing to do a lot of HHD checks lately. On too many occassions had to reformat, which ALWAYS seem directly related to the number of good progams I have backed up to watch.

Anyway, took unit apart to undertake above instructions only to find my board layout is different

HV looks the same but LV definitely not. I am laid up at home for the moment and board is at work. But Warkus I figured your DIVINE like status on here would have you knowing of this variation

Physical checks look OK (no swelling, burning, tracking, etc), but appreciate it is not a major factor.

Any early assistance that will allow me to order parts from RS will be great. Otherwise I will try post pic when back at work (or get someone to bring board to me)

brianh · Post by **brianh** » Tue May 11, 2010 21:53

grampus wrote:
brianh wrote: and about a dozen remote controls.....
Brian, surely the time has come to go the Harmony route.
That'll keep you off the streets for a day or 2.

God, I can't remember when I posted that....

I did get a Logitech remote (the Xbox one) some years back, I sort of got it set up but our TV doesn't have "defined" input selection, it only cycles through the inputs which made it hard to automate any turn on sequences.

The remote, while sitting on the coffee table, would also light up at the drop of a hat which was very annoying and chewed through batteries like no-one's business so it went into the cupboard & hasn't come out again.... I might play with it again one day, when I have enough time to get bored (that's a few years away it seems)

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Tue May 11, 2010 22:42

Hi alland57,

" But Warkus I figured your DIVINE like status on here would have you knowing of this variation ..."

Divine like status.... Hardly!! LOL... There are many people on this forum with a more divine like status than I...

I am just a mere mortal...

Your PSU is probably that of the DP-P1 style, ie newer and improved. There was a batch or two of the DP-S1 before it dissappeared off shelves that was actually sold with the newer model of PSU in it.

They are not all that comon really, so I am guessing there was only one or two batches of them came in like that. It's good news for you, as it means it is not likely to be your PSU causing your problem, becasue at this time (remains to be seen in the future) but at this time there has not been a problem with that particular model PSU like there is with the older model.

This means that if I were you I would look at other things to be causing the problem.

More comon I am discovering is the IDE or HDD cable causing this problem. As the machines age, the IDE cables are getting rather brittle, and I have needed to replace many for very similar problems to what you are experiencing.

Try replacing the cable to start with and see if things improve. Possibly, if not the cable, it could actually be the drive itsellf...

PM me for further assistance, and I can try to trouble shoot with you.

Mark

chinga69 · Post by **chinga69** » Thu May 13, 2010 04:58

warkus wrote:Done,

Warning now put at the top/beginning of the thread.

BTY, chinga69, your welcome, and I am really sorry you were badly misinformed.

You will need to redo the repair if you have any chance of your unit lasting for an extended period of time, and I would do it much sooner rather than later to avoid any bigger issues.

Sorry.

Mark

ok so i will try and find some new caps

thank you all for the comments

tonymy01 · Post by **tonymy01** » Thu May 13, 2010 11:47

You don't have to find them, they can find you, Farnell has free delivery last two times I used them.

chinga69 · Post by **chinga69** » Thu May 13, 2010 15:52

ok will have a look

thanks

chinga69 · Post by **chinga69** » Fri May 14, 2010 00:00

i have bought the Panasonic caps from farnell

thanks to all for the help

sub3R · Post by **sub3R** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 18:30

Hi Mark (warkus),

Your procedure certainly made replacing the power supply caps in both our DP-S1s painless.

A piece of cake to do which is usually the case when the hard work has been done as far as identifying the caps.

The wizes had a mix of caps; Samyoung NXB series, Samwha WB series & Samxon KM series. I decided to replace the 1200uF 16V cap beside the 470uF 16V cap & the heat sink while I was at it ? it was too close to the heat sink for my liking.

On one of the S1s the 470uF 16V cap had a dry solder joint on one leg ? unsoldered one leg & the other leg slightly popped up from the board.

Looks like the cap replacement fixed one of my issues; for a few months now one wiz hasn?t been able to play DVDs (unsupported format message) even though the same DVD would play in the other S1. DVDs are playing fine now (touch wood). This wiz was the one that also had the dry solder joint on the cap.

In the 2nd S1 I was just starting to get DVD playing issues after the wiz warmed up (unsupported format) & after replacing the caps it was almost eliminated ? I was only getting the issue now & again. I pulled the case off again & twisted the power supply leads going to the DVD player, moved the ribbon cable going to the DVD player further away from the power supply & while I was at it also twisted two wires running from near the HDD to the mother board. DVDs worked fine after this. This was done to the other wiz prior to this.

For anyone having trouble sourcing caps I can recommend Farnell ? overnight delivery Sydney to Port Macquarie ? you just need to spend some time going through their large range making the right choice.

Regards,

vltowell · Post by **vltowell** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 13:06

Hi Warkus,
I am glad you you have this thread here. I have been having problems with my S1 since I got it. Taken it in for repairs a few times, and have to keep paying to it when it looks like it is just the PSU.
I noticed the thread start back in early 2009. Do you know if the design of the power supply is now different from back then?
I am looking at taking it in to get it fixed as I don't have the proper know how, and afraid I would stuff it up. I just don't want to have them replace the power supply with the same thing and then have the problem reoccur in a few months.

Hopefully once fixed, I will be able to play DVDs and not have the constance HDD fault.

Thanks
Vince

pellajl · Post by **pellajl** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 20:31

The power suppply has been revised and so has the motherboard.

Unfortunately you cannot replace your PS with the later version as it is incompatible with the earlier version of the motherboard.

Walrus did provide a service where you would remove the PSU and send it to him for repairs at a very reasonable cost.

I suggest you send Walrus a PM and ask him.

Regards

John

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 20:58

Hi pellajl,

That would be Warkus...lol...

But hey, warkus, walrus, same thing...

Mark

IanSav · Post by **IanSav** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 21:02

Hi John,

pellajl wrote:The power suppply has been revised and so has the motherboard.

Unfortunately you cannot replace your PS with the later version as it is incompatible with the earlier version of the motherboard.

Walrus did provide a service where you would remove the PSU and send it to him for repairs at a very reasonable cost.

I suggest you send Walrus a PM and ask him.

Walrus!!!

It is actually Warkus.

The rest of what you said is correct.

Regards,
Ian.

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Tue Sep 07, 2010 21:11

Hey I hear certain things about a male walrus that makes them seem pretty damm impressive! (more descriptive details not available on this family friendly site).

If these facts are true, I am more than happy to be considered a Walrus!

pellajl · Post by **pellajl** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 18:13

pellajl wrote:The power suppply has been revised and so has the motherboard.

Unfortunately you cannot replace your PS with the later version as it is incompatible with the earlier version of the motherboard.

Walrus did provide a service where you would remove the PSU and send it to him for repairs at a very reasonable cost.

I suggest you send Walrus a PM and ask him.

Regards

John

Sorry!!!!

IanSav · Post by **IanSav** » Fri Sep 10, 2010 17:12

Hi Mark,

Cut another notch in your belt. I just installed a refurbished power supply in my DP-S1 and the front panel has jumped back into full life. I must consider myself *very* lucky that the failed power supply only caused the front panel to go *very* dim. So many other things could have gone wrong.

By the way, the old power supply had blown the tops off a couple of capacitors.

I am surprised my unit has been so stable with this level of damage.

Thank you so much for your brilliant and prompt service.

Regards,
Ian.

camo · Post by **camo** » Tue Sep 21, 2010 09:17

Just to let you all know that I have also successfully done the fix on my S1 PSU.
I had one of the first ones and up until recently have had no problems whatsoever (changed to a 500gb about 2 years ago). However last week I came home to find "hard drive check" on the screen.
No amount of re-indexing or rebooting would make it complete the scan, it would stop about 3/4 of the way.
There was one recording with 0 seconds, which I suspect was causing it to lock. I couldn't delete that recording and none of the old recordings would play either.
I formatted the hard drive (there weren't many things lost), which brought the HDD back... and in case the PSU caused the 0 sec recording, ordered the caps from WES. A 1/2 hour fix and it was running again, and has been perfect ever since.

I have been waiting for a sign of trouble for a while fulling expecting the PSU to go sooner than it has. I'm still not even sure that it was the PSU that caused the glitch, but at least I know now that if it does it again, it's not it !

Mark.. thank you so much for your time in putting the fix guide & pictures together.. printing off Pic 5 to take to the shed was invaluable.

Cameron

clivejudd · Post by **clivejudd** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 02:08

Recent years experience seems to show lots of (newer) chinese/taiwanese of electros just don't know what they are doing! I guess a symptom of rapid developing Asian electronics industry!
Your pics of bulging & leaking cans are too common these days. Not only from one trademark either. It happens from both PRC & mainland China.
It also occurred quite a lot in CRT TV sets in the past but was due to cost-cutting design, more than component quality.
I'm from the era when Jap makers dominated consumer market and problem was fairly unknown.
Perhaps the great oldtimers like Rubycon & Nichicon didn't pass on their chemistry secret recipes to later competitors in Asian market.
Websearch on electrolytic caps. shows how widespread the problem has become!
I recently repaired a current model Netcomm router for a family member which was less than 2 years old! All it's electros, (same logo), were crook, bulgey or high ESR. Just put goodies in & it went like new.
Switch-mode power systems exacerbate the problems with unexpected high currents forced through capacitors, heating & stressing them.
Engineers under-specifying components due to inexperience or bumb-headedness or sheer cost pressures,are major cause of problems of early failure.
I suspect there are lots of makers shovelling crap product on unsuspecting electronic manufacturers in IT/Consumer markets.
If you are trying to buy 'good' replacement electro's, get an ESR meter and test them against the guide which will accompany it. That's about the best thing you can do for a start.If your very keen, then try 'leakage' test with practical DC voltage applied & check against spec. sheets of respected manufacturers. Reject those brands with 'HIGH' figures.

peteru · Post by **peteru** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 02:20

Here's one to make you think twice about cheap Chinese caps.

Raid · Post by **Raid** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 05:58

Peter

Unfortunately this type of thing is nothing new. I have been involved in electronics since the 70?s and fraudulent components are everywhere. I have even seen capacitors with nothing inside. I would be prepared to bet that the company that supplied these parts is not an official distributer for any major component manufacturer.

prl · Post by **prl** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 08:34

That sort of thing is also common for NiMH cells larger than AA size.

prl · Post by **prl** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 08:36

Raid wrote:... I have even seen capacitors with nothing inside. ...

That should give them a good voltage rating, even if they're a bit out of spec on capacitance

Raid · Post by **Raid** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 09:23

prl wrote:
Raid wrote:... I have even seen capacitors with nothing inside. ...
That should give them a good voltage rating, even if they're a bit out of spec on capacitance

All the capacitors were labeled as a top Japanese brand, all of the markings and even the batch number was correct. We sent a number of samples to the manufacture (in Japan) with the details of where they were purchased. They sacked their local distributor, who had purchased them from a third party. Within about 6 months the local distributor closed down.

The major component manufactures take counterfeit components very seriously, so if you find any they are very happy to follow up any reported cases.

One thing that bothers me about the picture is that the seam on the case is so neat it looks like the picture is a fake!

tonymy01 · Post by **tonymy01** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 09:47

yeah, I wondered if it was fake due to the metal edge being folded back out so nicely

madmax · Post by **madmax** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 09:55

tonymy01 wrote:yeah, I wondered if it was fake due to the metal edge being folded back out so nicely

It looks to me that it wasn't folded out, it was cut some way up. Look at the writing on the black case. But, why there would be a silver strip at the bottom is a mystery.

prl · Post by **prl** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:07

madmax wrote:... But, why there would be a silver strip at the bottom is a mystery.

The external insulating plastic was cut away first.

It also looks as though the can was cut above the crimp that holds the base in position. It's a fair bit shorter that the unopened one beside it.

However, the comments on the image's page say that it's a photo that linux-works found "on the net", so the provenance is not all that strong.

sub3R · Post by **sub3R** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:17

It?s surprising they used a fairly good brand of cap inside ? unless that is a fake copy. There were a few fake Rubycons & Nichicons getting around.

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 13:18

Maybe the one on the left is genuine.

tipscomp · Post by **tipscomp** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 22:39

Just wanted to place on record my thanks to Mark and tonymy01. I again am in the land of the living; having had a non-working BW is not pretty! Thanks Mark for your great instructions and photos and thanks especially to tonymy01 who gave up a Saturday morning to not only replace about 7 blown capacitors on my power supply but answered alot of inane and beginnerquestions about the BW as well.
So, if you are in Sydney I cannot recommend more than contacting tonymy01 if your BW (or even a Topfield) is not working. Otherwise,sending the psu to Mark in WA is definately the way to go!

Thanks again gurus!

sotko · Post by **sotko** » Fri Oct 22, 2010 18:10

Hi Guys

Is there a repairer for the DP S1 in Canbera? I am getting the ERROR 0000 coming up.
It also has a stuck tray that I want to get fixed. It is under warranty, but the turnaround for repairs is 3-4 weeks. That is what I was told anway.

So if there is a repairer in Canberra, please let me know.
Cheers

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Fri Oct 22, 2010 19:06

No one in Canberra that I know of but if it is under warranty, it will need to go to Sydney.

sotko · Post by **sotko** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 09:51

Thanks Gully.
Was hoping I could get away without having to send it to Sydney.

It's getting picked up tomorrow. No DPS1 for a month...

lifternick · Post by **lifternick** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 21:47

My son recently decided to try his best to kill our DPS1. Through the forum pages we were recommended to contact Warkus to try and repair our PVR. Man, I have never had better customer service from anywhere at anytime. Warkus, you are a genius and we thank you immensely for the manner in how you do your business. Nick

SomebodyElse · Post by **SomebodyElse** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 17:03

Mark, another very happy camper here. I actually bought the caps a couple of weeks ago, but only got the time today to have a go at it. Your instructions and pictures were so clear and easy to follow, the whole process only took about 40 minutes from unplugging the Wiz to firing it up again.

My display is now back to full brightness and it's visible from across the room again. I'd forgotten what it was like to just glance at the display to see how far through the recording we were!

Thanks so much for your generous time in working this out for us and making it available. Hopefully that'll keep the Wiz going a few more years until it's finally surpassed by the next generation...

Geoffh · Post by **Geoffh** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:38

I have an S1 and when it has a problem with a file from a USB drive, eitehr a bad file or just a hiccup in playback, my machine freezes and then has a problem with the hard drive.

It either says that HDD not initialized or requires checking. Sometimes this goes away after powering down but in some instances I have to reformat.

Or could this be a software issue?

Would this be related to the power issue? If so is there anyone in Melbourne that could help me as I am not very good at electronics stuff.

My machine information is

System: 0808 0000 0E20 BE3E
Firmware: DPS1-0105.301
Loader 1.0.14.1.8

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks

IanSav · Post by **IanSav** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:05

Hi Geoffh,

How old is your unit? If it is more than 2 years old then the power supply may well be drifting out of specification. Send Warkus (Mark) a PM and he should be able to get this sorted out for you. I am also in Melbourne and I am assisting a 4th friend to have his DP-S1 refurbished by Mark. Every unit processed so far has been a brilliant success story.

It will definitely be worth while contacting Mark.

Regards,
Ian.

vasme · Post by **vasme** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:11

I have had a similar problem with a recording straight off the TV stored on the internal disk...it would just lock and would have to power off. Sometimes the S1 would say I had no hard disk and would have to cycle the power once or twice more to get it to be recognized and then do a Disk check.

I couldn't delete the file either so ended up reformatting the disk...so far that problem hasn't re-occured but when using timeshifting and skipping back to watch the recording it usually gets to a point where it stutters and stops...I can then skip forward a couple of minutes and then it comes good for a little while.

The regular recordings seem mostly fine...it's just the timeshifting that's screwed.

The disk in it is a replacement WD 500Gb unit and am considering trying the original 200Gb unit or replacing the IDE cable just in case but given your disk is an external USB disk am wondering if these are all signs of a failing power supply

Vas

Beyonwiz AD055H018 MODEL PSU Repair - UPDATE 25-09-2012

Electrolytic cap failures in power supplies.

Fixed PSU for DP-S1!

Warkus

S1 Problems

About the Forum

Beyonwiz AD055H018 MODEL PSU Repair - UPDATE 25-09-2012

Electrolytic cap failures in power supplies.

Fixed PSU for DP-S1!

Warkus

S1 Problems

About the Forum

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