Beyonwiz AD055H018 MODEL PSU Repair - UPDATE 25-09-2012

rob86 · Post by **rob86** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 19:21

I second that ... Mark did a great job on my DPS1 as well. Hasnt missed a beat and is running well. He helped me to network it as well which now works a treat .

Thanks again Mark.

Kezza · Post by **Kezza** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 11:52

if you need some where to host the pictures from the first post please PM me as I can host them at no charge.
only asking because I can't see them

Kezza

madmax · Post by **madmax** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:40

Kezza wrote:only asking because I can't see them

They appear fine for me...??

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 13:45

?!?!?!

They seem fine to me too...

I checked, there doesn't seem to be any issue with the hosting, and the guide is showing all pics fine.

Not sure what the problem is for you Kezza?

Thanks Madmax.

Mark

John2323 · Post by **John2323** » Tue Nov 17, 2009 05:09

A big thank you to Mark for all his help in getting my DP-S1 power supply unit back up and running.

ThatTime · Post by **ThatTime** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 23:01

Mark,

Great thread and thank you for fixing my DP-S1's PSU recently.

I recommend Mark's services for anyone who's not keen on attempting this fix themselves, and given Mark's quick turn around time, professional work and constant updates through the process you really shouldn't bother getting the soldering iron out. Just pull the PSU out and send it to him. Don't worry if you're not near Perth, I'm based in Sydney and Australia Post got the PSU to him the next day.

Thanks again,
Aaron

sampsoia · Post by **sampsoia** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 14:34

Thanks Warkus for the the great advice.

I'd like to send my PSU in, but to ask a daft question, "How do I open the case to get it out?" On the back panel there are four small black screws - but that is about it.

How do the side silver decorative panels come off?

Any advice appreciated - in case I snap something!

Cheers
Ian

prl · Post by **prl** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 15:22

sampsoia wrote:...
How do the side silver decorative panels come off?

I answered this in the first place you posted it

sampsoia wrote: Any advice appreciated ...

Read the replies to your questions

recko · Post by **recko** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 22:50

Is anybody doing repairs in Sydney ?, Bwiz got every sympton tonight for PSU failure

I finally had to tune in tv inbuilt tuner

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 23:15

recko wrote:Is anybody doing repairs in Sydney ?, Bwiz got every sympton tonight for PSU failure I finally had to tune in tv inbuilt tuner

Beyonwiz are in Sydney so you could give them a call.

And please don't cross post - just post your question once.

madmax · Post by **madmax** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 23:18

Gully wrote:Beyonwiz are in Sydney so you could give them a call.

I bet it's cheaper to send it to Warkus and back......

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 23:26

I'll bet your right Madmax...

BW = $160 for new PSU + labour to fit if required. Not sure if they bother to repair them or not.

ME = $20 to repair + approx $22 for express post bags, unless your unit is really badly screwed, then about $50 for freight of entire unit to me and back (includes BOTH trips there and back so total including repair $70-$90 approx depending on where you live and whats wrong with it)

prl · Post by **prl** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 08:09

madmax wrote:
Gully wrote:Beyonwiz are in Sydney so you could give them a call.
I bet it's cheaper to send it to Warkus and back......

From all I've heard, quicker, too

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 10:18

prl wrote:
madmax wrote:
Gully wrote:Beyonwiz are in Sydney so you could give them a call.
I bet it's cheaper to send it to Warkus and back......
From all I've heard, quicker, too

Well good to know on both counts.

I guess the other option is if you can find someone competent and reasonably priced locally to follow the information on the forum on replacing the caps.

tonymy01 · Post by **tonymy01** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 11:26

I do it all the time for Toppies, but I would have to order the parts for the Wiz.
I usually do these fixes for a bottle of bourbon

peteru · Post by **peteru** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 17:07

Better make sure you pay Tony after the job is done, otherwise the quality of work may suffer. A whole bottle of booze in one hand and a soldering iron in the other is a recipe for disaster (or the start of a joke)

Paul55 · Post by **Paul55** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 22:22

tonymy01 wrote:I do it all the time for Toppies, but I would have to order the parts for the Wiz.
I usually do these fixes for a bottle of bourbon

Do you have:

1. A good stockpile,
2. A wrecked liver, or
3. A small client base

tonymy01 · Post by **tonymy01** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 23:34

I have done 5 in about 1.5years

So the liver is fine hehe.

fellb · Post by **fellb** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:21

Mark,

My machine purchased Aug 2008 has stopped working. I can't get the front light on although when I plug it into 240v, I can feel the hard disk working. I sent an email to BW on Monday but have had no response. Do you know anyone in Perth who could look at it please ?

Many thanks

Bob

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:59

Bob

It is always best to call Beyonwiz for a response.

fellb · Post by **fellb** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 13:33

thanks Gully, but I searched white pages in Melb and Sydney and couldn't find them ? can you assist ?

thanks Bob

IanSav · Post by **IanSav** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 13:39

Hi Bob,

fellb wrote:My machine purchased Aug 2008 has stopped working. I can't get the front light on although when I plug it into 240v, I can feel the hard disk working. I sent an email to BW on Monday but have had no response. Do you know anyone in Perth who could look at it please ?

Beyonw is is handled, in Australia, by Digital Products Group Pty Ltd (in NSW) http://www.digitalpg.com.au/ .

PM Mark (Warkus) as he is based in W.A and I am sure he will try to help you. He appears to have a good track record with Beyonwiz repairs beyond the power supply repairs for which he is most famous.

Regards,
Ian.

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 13:41

fellb wrote:thanks Gully, but I searched white pages in Melb and Sydney and couldn't find them ? can you assist ?

thanks Bob

No need to do that - you are on their website after all!

http://www.beyonwiz.com.au/enquiry.asp

fellb · Post by **fellb** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 14:10

thanks guys for you quick response. I'll phone them on Monday.

Cheers Bob

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 15:29

Hey Fellb,

Dude... I am in Perth. You can call DPG if you like, up to you, but your going to need to send it to them in Sydney, and unless in warranty you will be up for some $$.

PM me, and we can talk.

Mark

ea5e · Post by **ea5e** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 16:53

My P1 PSU died at 13 months old, all lights out, nobody home. I sent it to Warkus in Perth, who repaired it (HV section) and turned it around very quickly. The repair was professional (I'm an old electronics guy, so I noted the PCB was cleaned

), so Warkus is highly commended and reccommended.

I took the opportunity to put in two 30mm 5vdc fans that fit nicely into the back panel, blowing past the PSU heat sinks (sourced from Farnell), and a 500GB SATA HDD (cheap as) with the IDE to SATA converter from Altronics. It all fired up first ime, no loss of configuration, so I am a happy puppy and the family is pixelating again.

tonymy01 · Post by **tonymy01** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 17:24

How did the high voltage get fritzed? Electrical storm?

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 17:37

I would imagine not...

I have repaired many of them now, it is becoming increasingly comon sadly.

The PSU has a Fairchild 5L0365R (or 5M0365R depending on the batch run) high voltage switch IC in it, and the components failing are all associated components to this switch, thus causing the PSU to not "boot" so to speak, power is not switching through to the transformer in order to power the low voltage side of the board.

Unfortunately, out of the units repaired (including P2 units as well, not just P1 units), the fault is not usually the same each time. It can be as a result of a faulty diode, poly cap, ceramic cap, resisitor, or zenner, and in some cases it can be multiple of these!

In one particular case that I have just finished, I had a P2 in which the IC itself was actually faulty as well, and it had the most bizzare symptoms... The unit when plugged into the mains, would power the HDD up and several other power rails to the mainboard, BUT not the 7.5v and 12v required for system startup and standby, so again no power to the LCD display and thus it gave an appearance of being dead, but the HDD was just always on.

This had several faulty components, including the IC itself, although that is not normally the case. Most times it is usually just the associated components that fail, rather than the switch itself.

Either way, it seems to be that they are failing all on their own, rather than there being a reason for it.

The fuse is usually good too, power is still getting to the circuit itself.

vasilis · Post by **vasilis** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 18:22

warkus wrote:I would imagine not...

I have repaired many of them now, it is becoming increasingly comon sadly.

The PSU has a Fairchild 5L0365R (or 5M0365R depending on the batch run) high voltage switch IC in it, and the components failing are all associated components to this switch, thus causing the PSU to not "boot" so to speak, power is not switching through to the transformer in order to power the low voltage side of the board.

Unfortunately, out of the units repaired (including P2 units as well, not just P1 units), the fault is not usually the same each time. It can be as a result of a faulty diode, poly cap, ceramic cap, resisitor, or zenner, and in some cases it can be multiple of these!

In one particular case that I have just finished, I had a P2 in which the IC itself was actually faulty as well, and it had the most bizzare symptoms... The unit when plugged into the mains, would power the HDD up and several other power rails to the mainboard, BUT not the 7.5v and 12v required for system startup and standby, so again no power to the LCD display and thus it gave an appearance of being dead, but the HDD was just always on.

This had several faulty components, including the IC itself, although that is not normally the case. Most times it is usually just the associated components that fail, rather than the switch itself.

Either way, it seems to be that they are failing all on their own, rather than there being a reason for it.

The fuse is usually good too, power is still getting to the circuit itself.

Are the circuit schematic diagrams available anywhere? It must be rather difficult to troubleshoot without them.

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 19:50

There is limited circuit information available I'm afraid.

It is difficult yes, but helps to know the components well enough to know what they do and how they function, that way you can at least start to narrow it down.

Rather dangerous too, considering that testing is done while the circuit is live, and that part of the unit carries through it 350v.

Shakey hands = bad.

Also need the right tools too, Scope and high quality multimeter a must!

Mark

vasilis · Post by **vasilis** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 21:44

I am an Electrical engineer myself and have designed a few power supplies during my career, but I find troubleshooting without a schematic tricky.
My father-in-law by contrast was a TV repairman by trade. I remember once I had trouble with my (CRT) TV set. Although I have a Uni Degree, I was too scared to poke around a live chassis, especially without a schematic, a CRO, probes etc. I remember he came to our house with a bag of electrolytic capacitors. While the TV was on he started desoldering and soldering caps. The sparks were flying and I was really worried about him. I even felt sorry for him, how can an old man without a university degree, armed with only a soldering iron and some electrolytics fix the TV without killing himself.
How wrong was I!!! It took him about 10 minutes and the problem was fixed.
Scope? Who needs a scope, he said. The TV is your scope.

I guess you must be more like my father-in-law and not like me.

Also, perhaps the power supply is one of the few areas that usually fail and need this kind of repair. Now days most repairmen are card jockeys. Things are too complex, modular, and hardware and software are very intertwined. So to fix something, not only do you need a scope, you also need a fancy soldering station, the complete software development system, test jigs, logic analyzers, etc. It's a lot simpler to discard the module and plug another one.

Having said all that, I am glad that many people can salvage their units using some great advice from people like you.

ea5e · Post by **ea5e** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 03:54

No, there was no external electrical event that killed it, not to my knowledge anyway. It just quietly turned its toes up one day.The whole system sits behind a surge protector board. My prejudiced guesses for what they're worth are:
(a) The PSU is the most highly electrically and thermally stressed part of the unit
(b) Very inefficiently convection cooled in the overall packaging (the toppy is similar but worse)
(c) Bare board consumer grade OEM product built down to a price operating at the edge of the design envelope (thermally ~ 40 degree top limit, which it easily reaches in the Aus environment)
So, it's not a matter of if but when! The unit should have a fan in the design.

IanSav · Post by **IanSav** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 09:41

Hi Ea5e,

ea5e wrote:The unit should have a fan in the design.

A thermally efficient but fan less design is always preferred in a home theatre or A/V environment.

Regards,
Ian.

peteru · Post by **peteru** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 15:18

If you can build Hi-Fi audio power amps with passive cooling, then it should be just as possible to build PVRs without fans. Given that PVRs and Hi-Fi components are meant to co-exist harmoniously, it would be my expectation to have a fanless, passively cooled PVR design, not some whiny PC case construction.

For the next model Beyonwiz should look for more power efficient design for a total lower power consumption, bigger heatsinks and higher operating temperature design.

peteru · Post by **peteru** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 15:22

And perhaps they could call it the global warming friendly PVR.

IanB · Post by **IanB** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 15:43

Fans do not actually cool anything! They merely cause air movement and noise that decreases the thermal resistance between the heatsink surface and the air, which increases the amount of power a given size heat sink can dissipate.

The choice is a small heatsink with a fan that makes noise or a larger heatsink that makes no noise.
_

vasilis · Post by **vasilis** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 09:20

peteru wrote:If you can build Hi-Fi audio power amps with passive cooling, then it should be just as possible to build PVRs without fans. Given that PVRs and Hi-Fi components are meant to co-exist harmoniously, it would be my expectation to have a fanless, passively cooled PVR design, not some whiny PC case construction.

For the next model Beyonwiz should look for more power efficient design for a total lower power consumption, bigger heatsinks and higher operating temperature design.

Cost is the driving force.

Looking at my DP-P2 I can see that the top of the unit has lots of holes. That's a good thing to have for the hot air to escape. Provided that people don't stack other equipment on top of it, it helps a lot.

Now, if you want to go to the next level, you'll only have to look at the HTPC chassis and power supplies. They have efficient power supplies and very good thermal management for the entire unit. They use a number of "silent" fans with intelligent speed control etc. They are designed for this purpose, but last time I was considering buying one of them the price was $200 for a typical box.
Another school of thought is "the Steve Jobs way", i.e. fanless everything. It is possible, but again it costs a lot more.

Raid · Post by **Raid** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:43

Vasilis

When it comes to Power Supply efficiency, the PC is an excellent example of poor design, it is basically crap and the dumb consumer doesn?t know the truth. The technology used to produce very efficient PS's has been around since the early 90?s, only the silicon has been updated. The most common reason stated for not making an efficient device is cost; well this is just a lie. Dell one of the biggest, yet cheapest of the home computer PC makers, has some of the most efficient PS?s.

There has been a great deal of resistance to improving PS performance. I could write volumes on how difficult some vendors can be; because they want to use the same PS they have had for the last 10 years.

If you are looking at new PC hardware make sure that the PS you purchase has 80Plus.org or Climate Severs certification as a minimum.

http://www.climatesaverscomputing.org/tech-specs
There is no reason why BW cannot make a unit with a huge reduction in both standby and operational power consumption; because their competitors are already doing it.

PS: All, sorry about the rant.

vasilis · Post by **vasilis** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 17:15

Hi Raid,
I have my opinions about power supplies too but I will spare the rest (this time around anyway

),
Don't forget though that the power supply is only one contributor to the overall power dissipation. Even with external power plugs, computer based units such as PCs, media players, recorders etc can get very hot and need some means of cooling down.
A good product has to have a competitive price, low operating temperature, low noise, high reliability and many other qualities that are competing with one another. Manufactures don't want to over or under-engineer a product. I can't comment on BW, I hope they have the right balance.
As I said in another post, I went through the exercise of costing a HTPC vs an off-the-shelf unit. If I built my own system, I would have used top quality parts but it would have cost me a lot more. My decision to buy DP-P2 was based on the lower cost and design effort involved.
Of course I lost the control I would like to have, but you can't have it both ways.

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:01

I have just received the strangest PM this morning about this thread...

Thought I would float something by the forum folk...

SOOOOOO, POP QUIZ.... (manual one, not the click a button kind...lol)

a) Anybody here think I need to change my price to $150 + Postage, for the good of my business and that of the "punters", I guess that means you...
b) Anybody here think I need to put my email address on a PUBLIC FORUM in BIG BOLD LETTERS.
c) Anybody here not clear on the fact that I am happy to perform these repairs for anyone that may want them?!??!?!?!?

I just received a PM from a user who thinks that apparently these changes are needed for your own good... (Currently stunned)....

I thought it was quite good myself, but if anything needs changing, then by all means, forum people, please post it here in this thread so it can be constructively commented on by all...

Entries close 23/04/2010 or whilst I'm still in this on edge mood...

Mark

(mutter mutter mutter,,,, grrrrrrrrrrr)

madmax · Post by **madmax** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:06

Mark,

Since you are doing this mostly out of 'love', just do what *you* think is best, not what some other mug thinks.

tonymy01 · Post by **tonymy01** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:22

But once you officially charge people for your services (rather than just as an offer as a hobby repairer to do people a favour and cover your costs) you might need an ABN, claim tax, get liability insurance etc etc. This is why whenever I fix someone's unit (Topfield 5K) I insist on a bottle of Bourbon for my payment

.

IanSav · Post by **IanSav** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:55

Hi Mark,

I am completely satisfied with your current arrangements. Once there is a "letter" of introduction via a PM in this forum we exchanged all the contact information we required. Your services were well priced and extremely prompt. (You even apologised for being a few days longer than quoted but still well short of any comparable repair service!) The repairs you performed were comprehensive and of a technically high standard. I have absolutely nothing bad to say about your service - except perhaps that you are in WA not Melbourne.

If the price you charge covers your costs then I for one appreciate what you are doing for our community and hope that you keep doing it for as long as possible.

Regards,
Ian.

Gully · Post by **Gully** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:20

Hi Mark

I find that PM quite bizarre and agree with Madmax, you are the one that decides what you want to do.

Definitely sounds like someone wanting to turn you into something you are not.

peteru · Post by **peteru** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 13:23

I have a better idea! You should use an agent that collects a $150 fee for each repair, gives you 10% of the collected money at irregular intervals and still allows you to do the 100% of the work, shipping, handling and customer relationship management.

Alternatively, let us know who sent you this PM so that we can read the posts by this person with the "grain" of salt they deserve.

warkus · Post by **warkus** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 14:05

Or... I could just ignore him...

Initial boiling of blood has now subsided... lol...

Thanks to all for the comments and support...

I am actually a registered business and have an ABN etc, but to me this does not come into it on this forum. I am a big fan of the Wiz, as are many other Forum people. I am more than happy to help and perform repairs for people at cheaper than usual rates to assist where I can. I do this because I want to, my choice.

I do charge for my work, but as I own the business, I can charge whatever I am comfortable with at the time that the repair is completed, so for now and I am more than happy to help fellow forum people out with cheaper than usual repair prices.

As for all the other crud, I think that it is well established now that I am happy to help and that this thread is easy to find and is in the appropriate section with the appropriate name, as highlighted by Tony in another post (my thanks to you for that)...

So no I dont think it needs changing personally. I am open to suggestions though so anyone that feels they want to suggest something, please do... Just do it through the forum so it can be commented on accordingly thats all I ask.

As for identifying the person "directly", not sure I should unless others say its ok to do that forum rules wise?!?!?! VERY tempting though Peter...

madmax · Post by **madmax** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 14:26

warkus wrote:As for identifying the person "directly", not sure I should unless others say its ok to do that forum rules wise?!?!?! VERY tempting though Peter...

I wouldn't.....just let it be now and move on.

Donno · Post by **Donno** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 15:33

warkus wrote:a) Anybody here think I need to change my price to $150 + Postage, for the good of my business and that of the "punters", I guess that means you...
b) Anybody here think I need to put my email address on a PUBLIC FORUM in BIG BOLD LETTERS.
c) Anybody here not clear on the fact that I am happy to perform these repairs for anyone that may want them?!??!?!?!?

a) That's entirely your decision. You state your price to a customer and the customer can take it or leave it.
b) No - I think most people capable of operating a PVR should be capable of sending a PM.
c) No - I think most people capable of operating a PVR should be capable of searching a forum (especially when there's a sticky on the subject.

prl · Post by **prl** » Fri Apr 23, 2010 17:26

madmax wrote:Mark,

Since you are doing this mostly out of 'love', just do what *you* think is best, not what some other mug thinks.

+1

Perhaps, Warkus, you should suggest to your correspondent that (s)he should seek elsewhere for better prices and a marketing department

Beyonwiz AD055H018 MODEL PSU Repair - UPDATE 25-09-2012

power supply

PSU Fixed & Thanks

DP-P2 now RS

Re: DP-P2 now RS

P1 PSU reply

P1 PSU death

Re: P1 PSU death

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