Speed has dropped and not sure why

[Mr Electrickery]

Hi,
I have a U4 connected via Ethernet to our iinet modem/hub and then to my PC. Pc is a late model and should be capable of 1GB/S, same with all the hardware. Ethernet cable is a cat 6 and is kind of the obvious source of problem as I will explain.I use filezilla to transfer file from U4 to PC 2 files at a time unless there is only 1 file'

In the past I was getting approx 80 MB/s transfer speed split between the two files IE 40 each. The cable from U4 to Modem had a broken clip on it and would slip out every now and again and whole thing would stop dead of course. I put up with this for quite a while until it drove me nuts so i bought a cat 6 cable but speed dropped to about 8 MB/S total.I thought it must have been a cat 5 sold as a cat 6 but still no go so I went to local computer store instead of internet and bought another cable still no go.
this has me stumped. local computer guy told me my hardware should be capable of 1GB/S but That is a problem for another day. right now I would just be happy with 80 MB/s unless we can kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
I appear to have Parkinsons so I apologize for any typos I am tiring.
Thanks Iain

[sub3R]

It sounds like the new cables, but before chasing any more cables, I suggest the following.

Perhaps the cable with the broken clip has twisted one of the Ethernet socket pins so it now isn’t making proper contact with the patch lead. You may need to have a close look with a magnifying glass or something similar.

Do you still have the cable with the broken clip to see if you get your ~80 MB/s transfer speed back with it connected?

With all power removed, cleaning the Ethernet socket with Isopropyl Alcohol & a small soft brush may help.

For a transfer speed comparison; using FileZilla on my old laptop I get ~75MB/s transferring a recording from one of our U4s to the laptop (this is a long run from one end of our house to the other end). And I get ~100MB/s from the other U4 which is on a closer Ethernet connection.

[sub3R]

The attached Ethernet cable types pdf document may help you identify your Ethernet patch leads.

Depending on the type of plugs fitted, sometimes it can be difficult to identify the wire colours. I find a magnifying glass or Jeweller’s loupe helps.

Cat5eCableSchemes.pdf

(632.79 KiB) Downloaded 55 times

[prl]

Perhaps the cable with the broken clip has twisted one of the Ethernet socket pins so it now isn’t making proper contact with the patch lead. You may need to have a close look with a magnifying glass or something similar.

This sort of thing can cause a drop in Ethernet line connection speed from 1Gb/s to 100Mb/s, which seems to be what's happened in Mr Electrickery's case. That can happen when one of the four pairs of signal lines used for Gigabit Ethernet fails somewhere in the cable connection. 100Mb/s only uses 2 of the 4 pairs in the cable, but 1000 Mb/s uses all 4. If, for some reason one pair is not available, the connection can fall back to 100Mb/s.

I actually had that happened when one of the wires fell out of its connector on a wall socket in our house Ethernet wiring. The connection through that connector fell to 100Mb/s, and when the wire was reconnected, it went back to 1Gb/s. But the failure of the pair can happen anywhere along the chain of connectors and cables between the switch and the device.

If you have a managed switch, you may be able to log into the switch and confirm what connection speed the switch has configured the port to, and confirm that it's the connection from the switch to the U4 that's the problem, and not the connection from the PC to the switch.

As an example, here's what my managed switch (Netgear GS108Ev3) shows as its connected line speeds:

Screenshot 2023-05-15 at 10.18.41.png (41.4 KiB) Viewed 2768 times

If it's not a managed switch, you may want to try changing the ports on the switch that the U4 and PC connection use (in case the problem is behind the socket on the switch). You could also check for transfer speeds between your PC and any other Gigabit-capable devices you have on your wired network to confirm whether the speed restriction is between the U4 and the switch (only the U4 transfer rate will be restricted to 100Mb/s) or between the PC and the switch (all transfer rates restricted to 100Mb/s).

Gigabit Ethernet can be carried on any of Cat 5, Cat 5e or Cat6 cables. All three should be suitable to carry Gigabit Ethernet up to 100 metres.

[sub3R]

... That can happen when one of the four pairs of signal lines used for Gigabit Ethernet fails somewhere in the cable connection. 100Mb/s only uses 2 of the 4 pairs in the cable, but 1000 Mb/s uses all 4. If, for some reason one pair is not available, the connection can fall back to 100Mb/s. ...

I’m guessing this is what’s happened. One or more of pins 4, 5, 7 & 8 has lost contact (continuity). Pins 1, 2, 3 & 6 are probably making correct contact (continuity).

This is where an Ethernet cable tester makes the job a lot easier.

[prl]

This is where an Ethernet cable tester makes the job a lot easier.

My managed switch can do simple cable tests by itself, though when I had the connection problem, its estimate of where the fault was was way out – the distance said that it was a far-end fault, but it was actually a near-end fault.

[sub3R]

... its estimate of where the fault was was way out – the distance said that it was a far-end fault, but it was actually a near-end fault.

The tester I have doesn’t have the facility to estimate the location, so it can’t send me on a wild goose chase.

[Mr Electrickery]

Hi Thanks for all the responses.

1. Unfortunately my flatmate threw out old cable.
2. We tried the cable in another port on the switch no go.
3. I have a laptop. Is there a way to test the cable at u4 end and at least rule out u4?

Thank you, I will deal with other suggestions in another post.

[prl]

2. We tried the cable in another port on the switch no go.

I guess by "no go" you mean "connected at 100Mb/s" rather than "didn't work at all"?

3. I have a laptop. Is there a way to test the cable at u4 end and at least rule out u4?

Is the laptop the same computer as the PC that you mentioned in your earlier post? If you have two computers that you can connect to the same switch, then if you FTP from the U4 to each of the computers, you can see whether they get different transfer speeds. If they get the same low 100Mb/s speed, then the problem is probably with the U4 or its connection to the switch. If one gets 100Mb/s and the other gets 1000Mb/s, then the problem is probably with the computer getting only 100Mb/s or its connection to the switch. It's best to to this test using a different cable and port on the switch for the PC and laptop.

Do you have a managed switch, and can you connect to the switch's management Web page and check the connection speeds that the switch has connected at? If you don't know whether it's a managed switch, post its make and model. It's easier to check Ethernet connection speeds if the switch has that capability.

[sub3R]

3. I have a laptop. Is there a way to test the cable at u4 end and at least rule out u4?

prl’s suggestion is the easiest way to test, but the following information may help.

I haven’t connected a laptop to a U4 directly without going via a switch or router. To connect directly between a laptop & U4 (similar devices) my understanding is you need an Ethernet crossover patch lead which is different to a normal straight through Ethernet patch lead. A normal straight through Ethernet patch lead would typically be used between the U4 & a switch or router, or between the PC/Laptop & switch or router. The PDF article I attached to a previous post shows the different wiring.

I believe some devices have auto switching Ethernet ports for Tx & Rx so a normal straight through Ethernet patch lead can be used for a direct connection.

On my switches, each Ethernet port has two different coloured LEDs. One LED colour indicates a connection at 1000Mbps & the other LED colour indicates a connection at 10/100Mbps. Does your Router or switch have LEDs like this? If so what does it show when you are getting the slow speed?

[MrQuade]

You'll also need to ensure that both devices have a manually configured IP address in the same subnet so that they can talk to eachother.
Without a router/DHCP server in between, their automatic IP assignments won't be made.

[peteru]

Most likely explanation would be mangled pins or debris stuck in the Beyonwiz Ethernet port connector, where the buggered cable was used. If you are lucky, have a steady hand, good light source and very good eyesight, you may be able to carefully straighten the pins or dislodge the debris. A sewing needle, paper clip and tweezers would be useful tools. You might want to give one end of the paper clip a whack with a hammer to flatten it, such that you have a choice of round end and flat end when poking around.

@prl, If the screenshot of the switch configuration is for your equipment, you are leaving performance on the table by switching off the flow control.

Almost all Gigabit Ethernet equipment implements MDI-X (Beyonwiz products with GigE do), so there is no need for crossover cables. As long as at least one of the connected ports supports MDI-X, direct connections using normal Ethernet patch cables will work.

In most cases, you don't need a managed switch to see at a glance whether the port speed is 100M or GigE. The LED indicators on even the cheapest switches (and often on the connected devices too) will tell you straight away. Often the convention is green for GigE and orange for 100M. When you are physically playing with the cabling, the LED indicators are a lot easier and faster than trying to get the info from a managed switch. The managed switch approach is more convenient if you want to check without getting out of your chair.

It's possible to check and alter the Ethernet port configuration on your Beyonwiz. If you ssh to your Beyonwiz, you can do this:

Code: Select all

root@beyonwizt4:~# ethtool eth0
Settings for eth0:
        Supported ports: [ TP MII ]
        Supported link modes:   10baseT/Half 10baseT/Full
                                100baseT/Half 100baseT/Full
                                1000baseT/Half 1000baseT/Full
        Supported pause frame use: No
        Supports auto-negotiation: Yes
        Supported FEC modes: Not reported
        Advertised link modes:  10baseT/Half 10baseT/Full
                                100baseT/Half 100baseT/Full
                                1000baseT/Full
        Advertised pause frame use: Symmetric
        Advertised auto-negotiation: Yes
        Advertised FEC modes: Not reported
        Link partner advertised link modes:  10baseT/Half 10baseT/Full
                                             100baseT/Half 100baseT/Full
                                             1000baseT/Full
        Link partner advertised pause frame use: Symmetric
        Link partner advertised auto-negotiation: Yes
        Link partner advertised FEC modes: Not reported
        Speed: 1000Mb/s
        Duplex: Full
        Port: MII
        PHYAD: 4
        Transceiver: internal
        Auto-negotiation: on
        Supports Wake-on: ags
        Wake-on: d
        SecureOn password: 00:00:00:00:00:00
        Link detected: yes

The above shows that both the T4 and the connected switch advertised GigE speeds (full duplex) and successfully negotiated at that speed and established a link.

Also ...

Plain Cat 5 is not a good choice for Gigabit Ethernet, you'll want Cat 5e.

Cat 6 or Cat 6A starts making sense when you want the cabling to support 2.5 Gigabit or faster Ethernet, but is not required for 1 Gigabit Ethernet connections. Full Cat 6 or Cat 6A compliance also requires Cat 6 connectors. Using shielded Cat 6 cabling has the potential to create ground loops, which you do not want. Those old enough to have used turntables can probably tell some good stories about eliminating ground loops. Anyone who has set up a recording studio, or even a non-trivial guitar pedal board, should also be able to appreciate ground loops. However, ground loops in networking are a much bigger issue, because unlike in audio, where you hear the problem straight away, in networking you won't notice until either sparks fly, someone gets zapped, equipment inexplicably shuts off or blue magic smoke escapes from devices. Or all of the above at the same time.

BTW: Cat 6e is not a thing. Well, maybe Cat 6e is a marketing ploy, bu it's not a real standard.

tl;dr: Check the Ethernet ports for damage/debris and stick to well made Cat 5e cabling.

[Mr Electrickery]

Hi thanks for responses a fair bit of which went over my head.
I will try to tackle this one step at a time.
I Have a lap top and a PC but not to sure how go about using them.
would it be possible for somebody to test the cables for me? I am in Brisbane but I would be prepared to post items
Due to Parkinson's and poor eyesight A lot of the suggestions are beyond me. Just to reiterate I have never got above 80MB/S and at the moment i am getting about 10 MB/s and have never had 1GB/s. Both cable are 20 meters long thanks

[peteru]

• 80 Mega Bytes per second transfer rates are approximately what you can expect with Gigabit Ethernet on a Beyonwiz PVR.
• 10 Mega Bytes per second would suggest that the link speed has dropped to 100 Megabit, instead of one Gigabit.
• You can not get transfer speeds of 1 Giga Byte per second with Gigabit Ethernet. On any device.
• If the speeds are the same with two cables from different manufacturers, there's probably no need to test the cables as it is unlikely that both cables would exhibit the same fault.

[sub3R]

... would it be possible for somebody to test the cables for me? I am in Brisbane but I would be prepared to post items
Due to Parkinson's and poor eyesight A lot of the suggestions are beyond me. ...

I agree with peteru that if the Cat 5e or Cat 6 cables are from different manufacturers it’s unlikely that both cables would cause the same slower speed. However, if you want someone to test your Ethernet patch leads I could do that if you send them to me at Port Macquarie NSW. Just let me know by posting in this topic & I’ll send you a PM with my postal address details. Would the return postage make that cost effective though? I have an Ethernet cable tester so I can test the leads & also compare the transfer rate between your leads & my leads testing between a U4 & Laptop over the Ethernet LAN.

I suggest an inspection of the RJ45 Ethernet sockets for bent, dislodged or dirty pins first. I realise doing that would be quite difficult for you, but do you know anyone who can have a look at the sockets for you, especially the ones that had the Ethernet patch lead with the broken clip plugged in? For a thorough inspection a good torch & magnifying glass would be almost essential. A good phone camera would also work.

I have attached a photo taken at a slight angle of my Beyonwiz T2’s RJ45 Ethernet socket to show how RJ45 socket pins should look. Not a very good photo but it should give you or someone inspecting an idea.

[Mr Electrickery]

Hi Dennis,
Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. Thank you for your response. I just want to run some things by you and ever body.At the mode/switch end is where the broken clip was. we tried the new cable in in a couple of the ports other than the one it was plugged into.
In my mind that rules out switch end. Do you concur? I have checked the U4 end and have attached a photo of said port and it look bent pin free.What does every body think? I think it could do with a clean. I do have some Isopropyl Alcohol some where so I will dig that out. Would ear buds be OK to clean it. I will check the switch end when I have the opportunity.
Thanks every body for you help

Iain

[billyblue]

My 2 cents worth that may or may not help...

1/ I have to power cycle the switch that is between the BW & the router every 3 months or so; but the reason for doing this total loss of connection, not slow down.

2/ Way back I had a basic type of switch that connected all devices at the speed of the slowest one - I have an oppo 93 that is only 100 megabit, so the BW (and Shield) only transferred at that 100 megabit. A newer switch fixed that. I also had an old networked printer and an ATA that also were only 100 megabit, and would slow down other devices if connected through that old switch.

[sub3R]

At the mode/switch end is where the broken clip was. we tried the new cable in in a couple of the ports other than the one it was plugged into.
In my mind that rules out switch end. Do you concur?

Yes & no. Even with the cable in a different port I don’t know what would happen if a couple of pins on the port where the broken clip was plugged into had become shorted together. Perhaps this would have no impact on the operation of the other ports or maybe it would.

Is there a switch involved in your LAN, or is the LAN wiring as follows?
An Ethernet patch lead from a port on the modem/router to an Ethernet wall socket, then internally hard wired from that wall socket to another wall socket in the room where you have the U4, then an Ethernet patch lead from that wall socket to the U4. Another Ethernet patch lead from the modem/router to your PC.

Billyblue’s item 2 is a good point, but you were getting the faster transfer with the old broken clip cable. Has your LAN configuration been changed or has an additional device been added since then?

I have checked the U4 end and have attached a photo of said port and it look bent pin free.What does every body think? I think it could do with a clean. I do have some Isopropyl Alcohol some where so I will dig that out. Would ear buds be OK to clean it. I will check the switch end when I have the opportunity.

The U4’s RJ45 Ethernet socket doesn’t have any bent pins that I can see. A clean with Isopropyl Alcohol wouldn’t hurt though. Ear buds dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol would be OK to clean it, but just make sure you don’t leave any parts of the ear bud behind. I use a small brush with medium bristles. If the bristles are too soft they don’t clean enough & if too stiff they can bend or dislodge the fine contact pins. A small soft brush can be made a bit stiffer by cutting the bristles shorter. On some RJ45 sockets the pins can be dislodged & lift out at the front, so be careful of that.

[Mr Electrickery]

HI,
Time for the latest chapter in the continuing saga that is my U4.
After confirming that my U4 has no bent pins I remembered that I have a brand new V2 so I broke that out and tested the connection using that. Unfortunately same 10 GB/S. I think we can safely rule out the U4 end now Unless there is some setting Im missing but I do not think so, I had to set up the V2 from scratch.Also I have had a chance to inspect the rj45 sockets on the Modem/hub/switch and I have to say they are pristine.

Are there any settings in modem that could affect this. I don't think that is it as I haven touched them but getting desperate for a solution now.
To answer your question The network has not changed as far as I am aware. there are no wall sockets , just holes in our transoms and the one going to U4 is stuck to wall from flat mates bed room then round corner to lounge room then behind couch round to u4 next to tele. In other word it is all direct connections with no wall sockets. the cable to U4 is 20 meters long
at the moment I still suspect cables, what do you think now?
iain

[IanL-S]

Some routers have QoS settings for each device; unlikely but could be an explanation. Another possibility is a firmware update to the router has changed something. If you have not already done so, check that it is running the latest firmware.

The only time I have had this happened it was caused by a D-Link green switch which had fallen back to a less than max setting. Rebooting solved the problem.

[prl]

10 GB/S.

Do you mean 10MB/s? I doubt that your home network can support 10GB/s.

Anyway, I agree that that most likely rules out the U4 as the source of the problem.

Are there any settings in modem that could affect this.

There might be. There certainly are on the router/modem I use (Fritz!Box 7590). It has the option of setting individual ports to a lower power mode and that also restricts the port speed to a maximum of 100Mb/s (approx 10 MB/s). I actually use that on ports where the attached device doesn't support 1000Mb/s Ethernet.

But it's hard to answer your question without knowing what brand and model modem/router you use. I had a look back through the topic, and I couldn't find anywhere where you'd posted it, but I might have missed it.

[sub3R]

I think we can safely rule out the U4 end now ...

Yes, the U4 & V2 anyway.

Just to clarify. I assume your “Modem/hub/switch” is a modem/router that was supplied by iinet & there isn’t another switch involved. In other words the new 20m Ethernet cable plugs directly into the modem/router’s Ethernet ports & not into a switch with another Ethernet patch lead between the switch & the modem/router.

If you haven’t done so, try rebooting the modem/router. Easy enough to do, but some modem/routers don’t like having the reset pin held in too long otherwise they will reset to their default settings & not just reboot & retain your preferred settings. If you can find a manual on-line it should give instructions for this.

This is a long shot. Is the Ethernet cable running very close & parallel to 240V power or light wiring? To be on the safe side I always run long runs like this well away from 240V wiring (at least 0.5m) & if it needs to cross any 240V wiring in the ceiling I cross it at 90º. And no sharp bends or strain on the cable. If you think your cable could be running for a fairly long distance close & parallel to 240V wiring try moving the cable away from the walls towards the middle of the rooms & retest. I doubt this would be your problem because most 240V wiring from ceilings to power points (GPOs) near the floor are vertical runs, but still worth thinking about just in case there is a horizontal run. A short distance, for example a short patch lead running from a wall socket to a device is fine.

Perhaps the two new cables are the problem. I assumed the two new cables were from different manufacturers, is this correct or are they identical cables purchased from the same place? If identical, & after everything else has been eliminated, I suggest purchasing a short Ethernet CAT5e or CAT6 cable from somewhere like Jaycar, Officeworks or CableChick on-line & try that. It would mean moving the U4 close to the router/modem to do testing which means you wouldn’t have feedback from the TV. So use Beyonwiz OpenWebif (OWIF) to shut the U4 down to deep standby before switching OFF at the rear ON/OFF switch, or use the U4’s remote if it is set up to do that. The U4’s front display will indicate what state it is in.

If you haven’t used OWIF before; after the U4 has booted up, enter the U4’s IP address in your web browser to display OWIF (if you don’t have a fixed or reserved IP address for the U4 & your web browser doesn’t open OWIF try entering http://beyonwizu4 in your web browser. This should work providing you haven’t changed the Hostname to something else in settings – if you have enter that).

The red or green ON/OFF button at the top right of OWIF will only switch the U4 between standby & ON so use the Power Control icon below 'Remote' to shut down to deep standby or use OWIF’s U4 remote to access the Power/Restart menu (that remote is selected by clicking the 45º angled double headed arrow below ‘Remote’). Click on ‘Grab Screenshot’ to get a display & ‘Refresh’ to refresh. OWIF’s U4 remote is operated via the mouse cursor & has the same functions as the real remote. See attached screen shots. This video under the ‘FAQs, Tips & How to Guides’ sub forum has more info.

The offer is still there for testing your new cable/s but I think return postage could be fairly expensive, but it is up to you.

(the above has been edited).

OWIF - click to enlarge

Power-menu-via-remote-on-OWIF.jpg (103.56 KiB) Viewed 2273 times

[sub3R]

Mr Electrickery, I’ve made a few edits to my previous post to keep everything together, so if you have read it prior to those edits you may like to read it again.

[Mr Electrickery]

Hi I am going to try using quotes for first time.

Just to clarify. I assume your “Modem/hub/switch” is a modem/router that was supplied by iinet & there isn’t another switch involved. In other words the new 20m Ethernet cable plugs directly into the modem/router’s Ethernet ports & not into a switch with another Ethernet patch lead between the switch & the modem/router.

Yes modem was supplied by iinet and 20 meter cable plugs directly into it. I should also mention that we have fiber to house in case that has a bearing on all this.

If you haven’t done so, try rebooting the modem/router. Easy enough to do, but some modem/routers don’t like having the reset pin held in too long otherwise they will reset to their default settings & not just reboot & retain your preferred settings. If you can find a manual on-line it should give instructions for this.

Powering modem down is not the same as rebooting is it? I have tracked down manual I think. I have read some of it looking for reboot instructions but no joy. All I can find is about Factory Reset. I will attach manual for modem plus a photo of back of modem which has modem model number.

What is concerning is the manual refers to DSL. Is this correct . I would have thought it would be talking about fiber optics.

I will try short cable after I have clarified the reboot method.
Oh and cables are from two different sources which does seem to rule them out so first I want to try and rule out modem

thanks for everybody's help and patience
iain

PS I have attached Photo of back of modem which has model of modem in the hopes someone will down load manual and confirm reboot/ factory reset.
The manual it self was to big to attach

[prl]

What is concerning is the manual refers to DSL. Is this correct . I would have thought it would be talking about fiber optics.

The Technicolour TGT789agv is a modem/router. It uses both the modem part and the router part when connected to a VDSL (or ADSL) line. The DSL connection plugs into the grey phone connector sized socket on the back of the modem.

When it's connected to an NBN fibre connection, the NBN supplies a device, the Network Termination Device or NTD, that connects to the fibre on one side and has an Ethernet port on the other side. There is no fibre connection directly to the TG789. The Ethernet connection from the NTD to the TG789 goes into the red WAN Ethernet port on the TG789. The modem part is not used.

PS I have attached Photo of back of modem which has model of modem in the hopes someone will down load manual and confirm reboot/ factory reset.
The manual it self was to big to attach

Here's a link to the iiNet-branded manual for the TG789: https://help.iinet.net.au/sites/default ... 20v2_0.pdf

As far as I can tell from the manual (and it's a very sketchy and rather unhelpful manual), there isn't any way to limit the Ethernet speed on the ports of the TG789. It looks as though the Diagnostics Card in the TG789 might allow you to check the connection speed of the Ethernet ports: the manual says that the card allows you to "View port state and network statistics", but there's no information in the manual about what that actually means.

The Diagnostics Card is in section 5.4.11 of the manual I linked to.

A reboot (or power cycle) of the modem will simply restart the modem without changing settings. A factory reset will reset all the TG789's settings to their initial settings, and it will need to be reconfigured as though it was installed from new. The TG789 will reboot after it does the factory reset.

The Factory Reset procedure is in section 7.4 of the manual I linked to.

[sub3R]

Powering modem down is not the same as rebooting is it? ....

It is the same. In addition to what prl posted, this link explains the difference between a reset & reboot on your router/modem.
It reads: “A router reset is a much bigger deal than a router reboot. A reboot happens every time a router loses power. This is different from a reset because a reset completely erases all settings from the router.”
One of the Technicolor TG789vac v2 manuals I’ve been reading states: “Push the Reset button for 7 seconds and then release it. This restores the initial configuration and restarts.”
Be careful you don’t accidently do this. To reboot just switch off the power to the modem/router for 30 seconds or more then switch it back on. It will take some minutes to fully boot back up as indicated by the LEDs.

This link shows screenshots of the TG789vac v2's various pages.

In one of the not very helpful modem/router manuals it states the following obvious information:
“All Ethernet ports on the TG789vac v2 are Gigabit Ethernet ports and have a maximum speed of 1 Gbps (Gigabit per second).
For the Gigabit Ethernet ports you need at least CAT5E, but it is recommended to use CAT6.
When using other cables than the ones provided in your box, make sure to use the correct type of cable:
• Category 5 Enhanced (CAT5E) cables help to prevent cross-talk and are used for 10/100Mb/1000Mb(Gigabit Ethernet)
• Category 6 (CAT6) cables are similar to Cat 5E cables but have larger gauge wires and are used for 10/100/1000Mb (Gigabit Ethernet). This cable is better than CAT5E for Gigabit Ethernet.”

I have a Telstra supplied Technicolor DJA0230TLS modem/router which is a different model to yours. The Advanced page is similar to yours but not the same. As well as other info & options, my model shows the following:

• The Basic Home page shows the connected speed of the devices on the LAN providing they are switched on or in standby.
• On the Advanced Gateway page there is an option to reset the modem/router as well as to restart it.
• Clicking on help at the top right of each page gives a brief explanation about the information & options on that page.
• The Advanced Diagnostics Network page shows the connection speed of the Ethernet port/s – in my case it shows 1000 Mbps.
• I can’t find any option to change the Ethernet LAN speed.
• The Advanced Diagnostics Log Viewer doesn’t show any LAN connection speeds, but I don't have a speed issue. It may if there was an issue.

According to one of the manuals I read there appears to be an ECO Manager. If possible try disabling Power Reduction for that & see if your speed improves.

I will try short cable after I have clarified the reboot method.
Oh and cables are from two different sources which does seem to rule them out so first I want to try and rule out modem.

Yes, providing they are well made good quality CAT5e or CAT6 cables. Have you tried moving the cable away from the walls as previously mentioned?

[Paul_oz53]

...

What is concerning is the manual refers to DSL. Is this correct . I would have thought it would be talking about fiber optics.

...

Similar experience. In an emergency last weekend I bought a TP-Link AC1200 to replace the ASUS that suddenly lost its 2.4GHz WiFi, stranding my printer and solar control system.

I was lost trying to find how to set it up for NBN FTTH operation for a few minutes. There were very vague instructions in the quick setup guide to use the Tether app on a mobile phone but it skipped over the EWAN settings.

The answer was to access it by IP address on the PC and, in basic setup, set it to wireless router mode - not DSL or 3G/4G Router mode - and ignore the VLAN setting.

I entered the account ID and password and it connected immediately to the NBN.

[sub3R]

I Have a lap top and a PC ...

Iain, seeing the transfer speed dropped after you replaced the cable/s I keep thinking it is something to do with the cable/s or the way that cable has been run, but you might like to think about the following:

If the suggestions posted so far doesn’t correct the reduced transfer speed issue, try swapping the laptop with the PC & see if you get any speed improvement with the laptop.

FileZilla is now up to version 3.65.0, I suggest downloading that version via help > check for updates if you haven’t done so.

On my Windows 10 laptop I tried to see if I could get a slower transfer speed in FileZilla without changing any hardware, similar to what you are now getting. The following is what I found:

In Windows 10 under Start > Network Connections > Ethernet > Ethernet Status > Properties > Networking > Configure > Advanced > Speed & Duplex when I change this from Auto Negotiation to 100Mbps Full Duplex I get about 11MB/s transfer speed in both FileZilla & Windows File Explorer. When this is set to Auto Negotiation or 1.0Gbps Full Duplex I get about 90MB/s in FileZilla. If yours is set to Auto Negotiation or any other setting, try it on 1.0Gbps Full Duplex.

In FileZilla, enabling Speed Limits (speed limit can be changed in Configure) via the Transfer tab at the top, or via Edit > Settings > Transfers > Speed Limits will give a slower speed transfer. That hasn’t been done by any chance?

An observation on my setup; using copy & paste in Windows File Explorer or using FreeCommander XE I get a slower transfer speed than I get with FileZilla. About 45MB/s with Windows File Explorer & FreeCommander XE compared to about 90MB/s with FileZilla. I haven’t tried to find out why, but this is irrelevant to your issue.

I assume the Ethernet port & cable on your PC hasn’t been damaged & your PC has been rebooted at some stage.

(edited to correct Mbps vs MB/s).

[Mr Electrickery]

hi again,

The Technicolour TGT789agv is a modem/router. It uses both the modem part and the router part when connected to a VDSL (or ADSL) line. The DSL connection plugs into the grey phone connector sized socket on the back of the modem.

there is nothing plugged into grey connector, the DSL connector is plugged into the red connector.

i have tried using the second 20m cable instead of currently connected one as it is behind furniture and less convenient. the original cable was in exactly same place so i i sincerely doubted it would make any difference. i ran the second cable across middle of lounge floor as far away from power cables as i could arrange. no difference i am afraid.
Now this might be significant.

I have attached a screen shot of the network card of the diagnostic card.You will not that port 3 is limited to 100Mb/s and rest are 1000Mb/s with the exception of port 2 that has nothing plugged into it at the moment. I tried plugging the u4 into port 2 and it was also 100 Mb/s. I hope this gives you a clue!
My short patch lead (2 M ) should arrive today.
It is a cat 6A, Is this ok?

Thanks for all the help
iain

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[sub3R]

… i ran the second cable across middle of lounge floor as far away from power cables as i could arrange. no difference i am afraid.

That eliminates interference from 240V.

My short patch lead (2 M ) should arrive today.
It is a cat 6A, Is this ok?

If sold as CAT 6a it should be fine.

The attachments didn’t get attached.

[Mr Electrickery]

Well at my end it looked like it was there twice
Take 2

[peteru]

If the router speed drops down to 100 Mbps/s on more than one router port, it stands to reason that it's the cable or the thing connected to the other end of the cable that's causing the slow speed. Since you tried multiple cables and got the same results, that leaves the Beyonwiz as the most likely culprit.

It's possible that the Ethernet connector, the solder joints or the PCB have been damaged. You mentioned that the old cable had a broken clip. Was that because the cable has been ripped out the Beyonwiz socket with sufficient force to break it? If so, that could have created problems that could have been intermittent initially and only became permanent with enough movement in the Ethernet connector area to create a permanent fault.

If this was my Beyonwiz, I'd open it up and do a close visual check of the PCB, solder joints and traces. I'd probably also re-flow the solder on the Ethernet connector. Of course, that's after ensuring that there aren't any software configuration issues, power cycling the unit and possibly reflashing the firmware.

If you're not up to that / don't have someone to do that for you for free, you might as well learn to live with the slower speed, because paying someone to fix this for you is very likely to have a significant labour cost.

[sub3R]

Take 2

That worked.

Did you click on refresh data at the Diagnostics opening page before taking that screen shot, or is there another device connected to the router's Ethernet LAN ports (1 to 4) apart from the U4 & the PC?

Comparing that Diagnostics Network page with mine, I think it is showing:

• Nothing is connected to Port 1.
• A device is connected to Port 2 at 1000 Mbps link speed (the PC or something else?).
• A device is connected to Port 3 at 100 Mbps link speed (the U4?).
• A device is connected to Port 4 at 1000 Mbps link speed (the PC or something else?).
• A device is connected to Port 5 at 1000 Mbps link speed (the internet connection).

I suspect the U4 was connected to Port 3 at 100 Mbps link speed & the PC was connected at 1000 Mbps link speed to either Port 2 or 4 when you took that screen shot. What is connected to the other LAN port at 1000 Mbps link speed? Later you moved the U4 to Port 2 & it connected at 100 Mbps link speed, am I right?

To me that seems to indicate the problem with the connection to the U4 is between the router & the U4, unless there is some other setting in the router causing it. Did you happen to find the ECO Manager or Power Reduction setting I previously mentioned?

According to one of the manuals I read there appears to be an ECO Manager. If possible try disabling Power Reduction for that & see if your speed improves.

When you go to the router's Basic View opening page Basic View > Home, does it show a list of Ethernet/Wired devices? If so what Link Speed does it show for the devices? On mine each device has a reserved IP address & I have given each device a host name so I can easily identify each one, if you haven’t done that you may have to do some guessing. Don’t forget to refresh.

Any luck with trying the laptop in place of the PC? That could be easier to test before moving the U4 closer to the router to test with the short CAT 6 cable.

[sub3R]

... Since you tried multiple cables and got the same results, that leaves the Beyonwiz as the most likely culprit.

It's possible that the Ethernet connector, the solder joints or the PCB have been damaged. You mentioned that the old cable had a broken clip. Was that because the cable has been ripped out the Beyonwiz socket with sufficient force to break it? If so, that could have created problems that could have been intermittent initially and only became permanent with enough movement in the Ethernet connector area to create a permanent fault.

I thought the same at one stage but it appears the broken clip on the cable was at the router end.

At the mode/switch end is where the broken clip was. we tried the new cable in in a couple of the ports other than the one it was plugged into.

And a new V2 still had a slow transfer speed (GB/S was used instead of Mbps).

After confirming that my U4 has no bent pins I remembered that I have a brand new V2 so I broke that out and tested the connection using that. Unfortunately same 10 GB/S. I think we can safely rule out the U4 end now Unless there is some setting Im missing but I do not think so, I had to set up the V2 from scratch.

[peteru]

The information given is less than precise, so I'd be inclined to take the details with a grain of salt. I'm fairly confident that the speed was never at 10GB/s. That would imply a connection in the ~100 Gigabit/s category and such throughput is pretty much unattainable with current consumer hardware.

There are many possible scenarios. It could be that someone tripped over the cable and there was tension on both ends. One end could have a broken plastic clip, while the other end could have a damaged Ethernet socket / PCB.

Either way, all the evidence so far points at the Beyonwiz end. I suspect that once the new Ethernet cable arrives the situation is unlikely to get any better, unless the problem is an intermittent connection and the act of swapping cable results in a slightly better connection. If that was to be the case, then the reliability of that connection would be questionable.

[prl]

The information given is less than precise, so I'd be inclined to take the details with a grain of salt.

And slow to come. I asked for information about the port speeds as shown in the network device back in May.

I'm fairly confident that the speed was never at 10GB/s. That would imply a connection in the ~100 Gigabit/s category and such throughput is pretty much unattainable with current consumer hardware.

I'm pretty sure that the 10GB/s was a typo for 10MB/s transfer speed, and I said so when I first posted. 10MB/s transfer speed is consistent with a line speed of 100Mb/s, and I think it was in that state when Mr Electrickery first posted.

[sub3R]

Certain medical conditions can make things more difficult & slower than can be expected.

[Mr Electrickery]

Hi Just to clarify a few things.

I'm fairly confident that the speed was never at 10GB/s

That clearly was a typo. As I have said before I have Parkinson's and typing has become rather tedious so I apologize for any typos that slip through.
I stated right at the beginning that the speed change that the speed had changed from 80Mb/s to around 10 Mb/s.
also the broken clip was at the modem end not the U4 end.

Either way, all the evidence so far points at the Beyonwiz end.

I doubt that because i have tried my Brand new and totally unused V2 in place of the U4 and still got approx 8 Mb/s. In my mind that rules out U4.

There are many possible scenarios. It could be that someone tripped over the cable and there was tension on both ends. One end could have a broken plastic clip, while the other end could have a damaged Ethernet socket / PCB.

Again this is very unlikely as well because the cable is well out of the way behind the couch in the lounge room and stuck to wall the down behind my flat mates bed to modem.
we would have to be acrobats to trip over it. The only time the cable ran across floor in open was recently when i ran a cable across the middle of lounge floor to see if power was interfering with it.I assure you nobody tripped over it.

The extra unaccounted for port goes to my flat mates computer. One thing I have noticed since last post the LEDs on modem, on the slow port only 1 LED is lit. I tried the short cable and alas still 10 Mb/s. Tried it on both my U4 and my v2 which in my mind rules out the U4.

iain

[sub3R]

I tried the short cable and alas still 10 Mb/s.

I would have lost money betting on that.

Just in case. If easy enough to do, try that new cable between your router & your PC to see what the router indicates for that connection.

One thing I have noticed since last post the LEDs on modem, on the slow port only 1 LED is lit.

On your Diagnostics Network page I see two LEDs lit on each port that has something connected. The two green LEDs on ports 2 & 4 indicates a possible 1000Mbps link speed, & the orange LED with green LED on port 3 indicates a possible 100Mbps link speed. The same as what the the text is stating. Is this what you are referring to?

My router shows the same simulated LEDs for the 1000Mbps link speed port that connects to my stand alone switch (I don’t have slower devices connected to compare [edit]tested in the next post[/edit]).

Do you realise your three screen shots of the Diagnostics Network page are identical? You should be able to refresh the Diagnostics Network page by clicking on the Reset Stats soft button that should appear when you scroll down in that page - providing there is one.

Have you tried Filezilla to see what transfer speed you get?

[sub3R]

With my spare T2 connected directly to my router’s port 2 via a 2m long CAT5e cable I just checked the LED status on the router’s Diagnostics Network page. The T2 having only a 10/100 Ethernet LAN shows an orange & a green LED & states 100Mbps. The U4 has a 10/100/1000 Ethernet LAN so it would show two green LEDs & state 1000Mbps. See attached image after a Reset Stats.

Using FileZilla I get the following transfer speeds when testing a download of the same recording from the T2 to the PC & from a U4 to the PC. T2 about 11.4MB/s & U4 about 95MB/s.

I stated right at the beginning that the speed change that the speed had changed from 80Mb/s to around 10 Mb/s.

It’s easy to get mixed up between MB/s (Megabytes/sec) & Mb/s (Megabits/sec), I've been guilty once or twice. (1MB/s = 8Mb/s). I’m fairly certain you mean 80MB/s & 10MB/s, not 80Mb/s 10Mb/s.

I have a feeling there is something obvious that is being missed.

T2-on-router-port-2.jpg (97.92 KiB) Viewed 1692 times

[ShawnK]

Powering modem down is not the same as rebooting is it? ....

It is the same. In addition to what prl posted, this link explains the difference between a reset & reboot on your router/modem.
It reads: “A router reset is a much bigger deal than a router reboot. A reboot happens every time a router loses power. This is different from a reset because a reset completely erases all settings from the router.”
One of the Technicolor TG789vac v2 manuals I’ve been reading states: “Push the Reset button for 7 seconds and then release it. This restores the initial configuration and restarts.”
Be careful you don’t accidently do this. To reboot just switch off the power to the modem/router for 30 seconds or more then switch it back on. It will take some minutes to fully boot back up as indicated by the LEDs.

This link shows fast payouts and screenshots of the TG789vac v2's various pages.

In one of the not very helpful modem/router manuals it states the following obvious information:
“All Ethernet ports on the TG789vac v2 are Gigabit Ethernet ports and have a maximum speed of 1 Gbps (Gigabit per second).
For the Gigabit Ethernet ports you need at least CAT5E, but it is recommended to use CAT6.
When using other cables than the ones provided in your box, make sure to use the correct type of cable:
• Category 5 Enhanced (CAT5E) cables help to prevent cross-talk and are used for 10/100Mb/1000Mb(Gigabit Ethernet)
• Category 6 (CAT6) cables are similar to Cat 5E cables but have larger gauge wires and are used for 10/100/1000Mb (Gigabit Ethernet). This cable is better than CAT5E for Gigabit Ethernet.”

I have a Telstra supplied Technicolor DJA0230TLS modem/router which is a different model to yours. The Advanced page is similar to yours but not the same. As well as other info & options, my model shows the following:

• The Basic Home page shows the connected speed of the devices on the LAN providing they are switched on or in standby.
• On the Advanced Gateway page there is an option to reset the modem/router as well as to restart it.
• Clicking on help at the top right of each page gives a brief explanation about the information & options on that page.
• The Advanced Diagnostics Network page shows the connection speed of the Ethernet port/s – in my case it shows 1000 Mbps.
• I can’t find any option to change the Ethernet LAN speed.
• The Advanced Diagnostics Log Viewer doesn’t show any LAN connection speeds, but I don't have a speed issue. It may if there was an issue.

According to one of the manuals I read there appears to be an ECO Manager. If possible try disabling Power Reduction for that & see if your speed improves.

I tried Power Reduction. I think it's useless. Did it work for anyone?

[Mr Electrickery]

Hi Well I have some good news although not a total win yet.
I swapped cable to my room with the spare new one and now getting 30MB/s. I happened to check old post "maximum size of external hard drive on a U4" and there was new post asking about speed difference between internal and external drive. So I tried transferring from internal drive (which I had done before and no difference) and low and behold 80 MB/s. However this does raise some questions regarding hard drive speed.

I checked external hard drives specs and It spins at 5400 RPM so tried a 2 Tb 7200 drive I have and it made no difference.
I have come up with a partial solution to this problem and that is to format internal drive ( its full hence the bigger external HDD) and use it to record onto. I then would transfer files onto my PC to edit the adds out. Now heres where I am a little unsure, would it be better of transferring files to internal HDD ( 80 MB/s ) and use U4 to transfer them to external drive or put them directly onto external HDD? What hard drive should I be looking at for an external drive.
Are there any better ideas? And I would still like to investigate why I can only get 80 MBs at the fastest.

I would like thank everybody for their help,patience and understanding so far
Iain

[prl]

Do you have the external HDD connected to the U4's USB3 port or its USB2 port? Do the drives support USB3 or only USB3?

If the USB connection is USB2 (if either end supports USB2 at best), the port cannot transfer faster than 53MB/s, and its actual throughput will probably be less. You simply can't get 80MB/s through a USB2 connection.

An alternative to using external drives would be to buy a larger replacement internal drive and fit that and format it. Since you've recently formatted the internal drive anyway, you'd have relatively few recordings on the old internal drive to lose or transfer temporarily to the external drive.

Once the new internal drive is fitted, you could just copy everything that's on the external drive to the internal drive and use the external drive for something else.

Whether you'd be better off transferring recordings from the external drive to the internal drive and then to the PC or transferring direct from the external drive to the PC depends on what the transfer speed is between the external drive and the internal drive is. If it's the transfer from the external drive that's the bottleneck, you probably won't get any speed improvement for the whole transfer by doing it in two steps (and it may be worse). The only way to be sure is to time it.

[Mr Electrickery]

Hi, thanks for response.

Do you have the external HDD connected to the U4's USB3 port or its USB2 port? Do the drives support USB3 or only USB3?

If the USB connection is USB2 (if either end supports USB2 at best), the port cannot transfer faster than 53MB/s, and its actual throughput will probably be less. You simply can't get 80MB/s through a USB2 connection.

The first thing I checked was to make sure external drive is plugged into USB 3 port. It is the one immediately below the RJ45 socket.
The external drive is a internal drive in an external enclosure which I am pretty sure is USB3 as it was a very recent purchase and has a USB C connector on it for data. However I do not know this for certain so I will try to verify this by getting a model number of it and tracking it down.

An alternative to using external drives would be to buy a larger replacement internal drive and fit that and format it. Since you've recently formatted the internal drive anyway, you'd have relatively few recordings on the old internal drive to lose or transfer temporarily to the external drive.

The 5 TB drive that is mounted internally is the biggest I could find that is 2.5 inches. If anybody is aware of bigger drives in particular 8 tb and larger. The research that I have done so far is that they are no longer developing 2.5 inches is Favor of of SSD drives which so far are cost prohibitive.
I appreciate any and all help in this matter
Iain